Premo Italiano Day 1 & 2 – Lake Maggiore

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This is where I do what I do as a professional tour guide. My clients begin to arrive from all over the United States to the Milan MXP airport. Lets see.. we have 4 from Tennessee.. check… three from California.. one from Wisconsin and Washington State. I wont accept more than 16 passengers; I value quality and the ability to feel relaxed so small groups are just perfect. This trip will have 12 passengers. The first clients land at 6:35 am; its raining. When people get off the plane in Italy they tend to be a little tired but excited about the trip ahead; when its raining, the energy is just not there and questions about the weather start after “Hello and welcome to Italy” The good thing is that Italy does not stay wet for long in May. Showers come and go but for the most part its sunny, clear and just lovely. I believe our May and September tours are the best ones.

Amazing, no lost clients and only one arrived without their luggage.

Travel TIP: Buy travel insurance! I always tell my clients to get travel insurance for each and every trip they take; not for being sick or robbed; that rarely happens on any trip; but what does happen on almost every trip is delay. Delay of you or your bags is a definite fact and everyone will experience lost bags or missed flights if they travel enough. Travel insurance will give you a daily spending limit to get what you need to be more comfortable and if by chance your luggage never shows up you get quite a bit of cash for the airlines loosing it. The small amount travel insurance will set you back does not even compare to the benefits you reap if you miss your first nights hotel or your bags do.

This year we have a brand new Mercedes coach. I only use small coaches under 20 passengers since I only take a maximum of 16 passengers at a time. This allows us to go almost anywhere a car can go. Those other tours that use 30-50 seat coaches are stuck at huge parking lots and guests must walk because the bus is so big it cant go any further.

The new coach is lovely.. leather seats, killer sound system, DVD, the works. It even has that “new coach” smell.. ahhhh.

The first set of clients is aboard and we head off into the misty scene that is today’s Italy. Our base location is in the town of Baveno on Lake Maggiore. Lake Maggiore is located about 45 minutes from the Milan airport and is Lake Como’s sister lake. I have been brining people here for years and not Como because Como has accepted the big commercial push and has become quite crowded and touristy. My concept of a good trip begins with a slow entry into the new culture. You must pick an area that is quite, lovely and genuine and Lake Maggiore fits the bill.

Aronne; my driver and I spend the majority of the day going back and forth to the airport to pick up my clients. The last one comes in around 3pm. It’s a relief that everyone is in safe and sound.. now the fun begins.

Strolling over the stone patchwork walks of Corco Italia; the main road that connects the towns of Baveno and Stresa; you can gaze and see the majesty of the massive lake. Towering Swiss Alps seem to encircle you in their beauty and silhouetted shapes. The islands of Isola Bella, Pescatori and Madre seem like green oases in the flat waters of Maggiore. Stroll by some of the grandest European hotels each adorned with flowered balconies, ornate metal work and pampered lawns.

Lake Maggore has refused the big industry that nearby Como has accepted with open arms. Como with its city like pace, fancy shops and crowded streets seems a world away from the calm comforting and gentle vibe of towns like Stresa and Baveno. Maggiore feels as it were frozen in time, stopped some how in its most glorious moment.

Baveno with its short lakeside walkways, hip local cafes and family run pizzerias. On the shore are grand hotels boasting marble adorned bathrooms, dual balconies and gold trimmed doors; it’s not gaudy, it’s elegant in the most European way. During warm summer nights outdoor markets take root in the town square. They don’t offer the usual nick nacks but well thought out choices of fine and unique items. Over there, a man from Africa sells hand carved figurines, imported incense, hand made wooden combs and brushes. Stroll by a table top full of antique cameras, fine pens, pencils and colorful hand made candles... each vendor displaying their pride with every glance of there goods. The smell of sandalwood tickles your nose.

At about 5 pm we have our orientation, cocktails and meet and greet. I explain to the clients over wine or their favorite beverage the wonders of the days to come as well as the practical information such as where the closest ATM is and the best place to sample their first gelato of the trip.

After we unwind from the long day of travel most have endured to arrive, I explain they have to jobs to complete while they are with me. 1. To truly enjoy themselves and 2. to relax. I think as Americans we tend to be in a multi-task world that slowly shrinks our ability to slow down, relax and enjoy the simple things in life. My tour allows each guest to do this in style.

After orientation we head over to the neighboring town of Stresa for a private wine and olive oil tasting with a wonderful close friend named Rosaria Bolla. This woman in her 70’s (though she looks 20 years younger) knows her stuff. In her shop Enoteca La Cambusa. Via Cavour, 27 there seems to be a bottle from every wine producer in the world much less Italy; and Rosaria knows the history, technique and producers each bottle was born from. She is funny, loving and has a true passion about what she does. With open arms she welcomes my clients and the wine and spirits begin to flow. We try dry, sweet, strong, light and aromatic wines of Italy each with an explanation of its history and why Rosaria chose it for us.

We also sample truffle spread, a lovely strong taste with smooth finish on bread.. just wonderful. We sample olive and sun dried tomato dip that is bottled in Italy and would make even the most authentic Italian chef beg for the recipe. As the group laughs, listens to stories I can see the stresses of everyday life slowly slide away from their faces replaced by the content smile that is a wonderful and welcome addition to the first day on tour. Rosaria gives a big smile as she tell me and the group she finely got her famous recipe written down for those who come to visit her at the shop. Everyone comes closer in anticipation of the detailed instructions to create an Italian masterpiece back home.

Risotto for 3 people

1 little onion
Olive oil
250 -300 grams of rice.
Saffron, mushrooms or vegetables of your choice
1 cube of beef stock
½ glass of white wine (Italian of course)
A boiling kettle of water
Grated parmesan cheese
Butter or heavy cream

“Put the oil in a small casserole with the onion finely diced. Switch on the fire (gentle) When golden add the rice and stir for 1 minute add the white wine, keep stirring, when the wine has dried out put the beef cube and add half kettle of boiling water stir and let cook. Check every now and again if needed add more water, taste for salt you might need half beef stock or a pinch of salt. After 15 minutes taste (al dente) If it is to sticky add some cream or milk take it away from the fire, you can now serve it”

I hope my clients and readers will try this wonderful dish from a wonderful person. After the welcome, the clients are happy and seem to not have a care in the world. We go for a walk in the cool evening air and I show them the town square of Stresa where children play, travelers relax and locals do their local thing. Next is diner with “the brothers.”

I became friends with Antonio and Franco; two brothers who own La Trappola a local restaurant where they welcome each guest with a smile and a “how are you” in the thickest Italian accent. The freshest pasta, pizza and local dishes are prepared not with tourism efficiency but with gentle care of which your grandmother would approve. They come to visit each table to take a moment in time to meet you and truly wonder who and where you are from. You get a true sense of family and receive a welcome not found in other busy areas of Italy.

The group orders fresh pizza, pasta with sauces ranging from butter and clams to meat to gorgonzola; each prepared to order and delivered piping hot with a smile. Italian wine, beer and conversation flow.

As my clients bellies begin to fill their eyes begin to close as jet lag begins to win over one by one. Happy and full they retire to the hotel.

My mother and I have personally chosen the hotels used on this tour and have become great friends with the staff and owners of each. Our hotel in Baveno is a grand European hotel adorned with Baroque style and European elegance; its actually quite amazing. Each inch is a plethora of details. Stained glass, marble, fine woods, fabrics and crystal surround each guest in lush grandeur. A perfect home for the end of a perfect day.

We meet in the lobby the next morning about 9am for the days adventure to the island of Isola Bella. We board the coach for the 5 minute ride to Stresa and we board the ferry. The weather is perfect, not too hot, just right. The waters of the lake are flat and calm as we board the ferry. The ferryboat glides along the lake side heading toward the largest of the Boromeo islands. The ferry passes lake side villas, parks and majestic peaks of the surrounding mountains covered in a plush carpet of green.

Imagine a mansion the length of a football field and 4 stories high, then place gardens of the most elegant, European grandeur of the same size out back and you have Isola Bella. Its jaw-dropping baroque style at its best. I get tickets for each of my gests and begin showing them around. From the grand ballroom with perfect acoustics, master stone work “sleeping Venus” to the pebble covered lower floors used as ancient air conditioning; the villa impresses and astounds each member of the group.

The massive gardens with white peacocks spreading their plumage, rare plants, extraordinary flowers, lemon trees and the plants called Elephant Ears with leaves so large you could catch shade under them all live in this wonderland of pampered foliage.

Free time starts at the end of the gardens and members of the group dart off in different directions like children let loose in a candy store. Some go back to Stresa to see Rosaria for the special bottle of wine and a welcome conversation with a local, others go over to Isola Madre to see the largest collection of ancient puppets, stages and costumes. Madre was the entertainment island of the day; and boasts quite the unique collection of hand made puppets (see photos) Others go back to the hotel to enjoy the olympic size pool, fitness center or read a book in one of the grand European parlors of the hotel.

The clients have this evening free to explore and find their own special eatery and to soak up this unique lakeside town before we continue on our journey the next morning. Aronne and I go back to the brothers for laughs and a great steak before retiring for the evening. Day one and two of the tour could not have been better or more relaxed.

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