The hallowed ground of Venice

As a professional guide my job is to show people a good time and introduce them to places they have only seen in their dreams or on the occasional TV show. Because I travel to these places on a regular basis they become almost invisible to me such as the Space Needle does to Seattleites. To stimulate my quest for the new, I venture beyond the tourist menus and clouded spaces seeing to find my next great discovery.

Venice is a wonderland of history and amazing winding canals that take you back in time. It takes different eyes to truly see Venice, eyes that see through the throngs of people, past the vendors selling masks made in China and people, so many people.

One hot day in July I had the day away from my group, they were off exploring the museums and shopping for the perfect piece of Murano glass. For me this was my time to explore. I thought I would venture out of mainland Venice on the number 42 heading toward Murano. The sun was hot beating down on my skin, making it feel warm to the touch as if I were in front of a winter fire.

Boats zipped, sloshed, and trudged their ay past our slow floating people mover known only as Vaperatto number 42.

I had been to Murano many times to stroll through its small winding streets whose storefronts glisten with fresh blown glass. I was hoping that Murano would show me something new this time, but I was not sure.

The old 42 stopped many times along the way. The ropes would be thrown and a painful creek would be herd as they stopped the boat for passengers to venture off and on. Stop name, stop name the boats gatekeeper would yell in the most routine of voices.

My destination was Murano but when the waves lapped, ropes moaned at the stop cemintario; I was pulled to disembark. I had never been to this strange walled island so I thought I would take a break from the known and examine the unknown for a while.

What is this place? I thought as I ventured from the dock bobbing in the surf. With my feet on solid ground I went forward toward the large wooden gate open and inviting in front of me.

A graveyard, oh wow a graveyard. This island that is just another stop for the many tourists heading to Murano was where Venice buried its people.

Well not the next happy day trip destination to show my group but I will check it out anyway.

The entrance was non descript, just a few rose bushes and buildings; its so hot, maybe I will just go back to the hotel and take a nap; no I will continue.

As I ventured past the arches gravel pathways I was suddenly surrounded by thousands of plots. This place is big, really big; I just start walking.

The first thing that hits me like the pungent flavor of fresh basil of my first place of caprasi each year is the silence. Where are the sounds of the tourists; the muffled roar of life is absent. The silence embraces me, relaxes me, slows me down; its wonderful.

I start to explore this hollowed ground surrounded by water just off the edge of Italy's most visited city. Unlike in the United States where we mark our dead with a marble headboard, I see hundreds of stone, marble and granite boxes about five feet by 3 feet, each with a matching billboard that displays the typical graveyard scribble.

But wait, something catches my eye, something that is different, yet all around me. Photographs, not one or two but thousands of photographs. Photos of the dead in their time of life. The face of Venice's past lives greeting me with smiles, happy eyes and proud stances; I am amazed.

It becomes obvious that Italy has a tradition of placing a photo of the deceased on the plot so the living may see them as they were. the experience is not morbid but joyous as I wind my way back and forth passing the markers. Mario, enzio, Maria, Gloria, Luigi all greet me with their best poses. Big smiles, bright eyes and serious gazes. This place is full of life, the life that each one of these people lived and their personalities shine through in the candid photos surrounding me. Enzo with his boat, marias proud smile, one you can imaging she had while serving her prized pasta sauce to her family on Sundays.

Every so often I pass the living with a pleasant smile or polite "hello" the wind passes through the Cyprus trees; I can't hear anything but the wind and the gravel crunching under my feet. I am drawn to see the next photograph; will they be laughing, look mean or content, the suspense of who these people were is electric. I try to imaging who they were, what they did, who whey loved and it becomes apparent with each photo that passes by. Gentle Italian faces, many black and white but some in color which bring to life the persons image even more.

As I continue on, deeper into this vast island of the dead I find myself among huge mausoleums. These structures contain the most privileged of families, each boasting gold leaf writings, glass ceilings and modern entrances you would now find in any fine home. These structures are grouped together in this vast metropolis. I have wondered into the uptown, the park place of the dead where its tenants surly adorned themselves with Gucci, Prada and Araimani's latest offerings. Despite their past lavish lives, they now share the same destiny as even the simplest of plots bearing only a faded photo and weathered stone.

Were they Venice's founders, businessmen, wives, husbands, thieves or lovers; yes they were all that and they gave me the opportunity to meet them in the most relaxing and inviting way.

NEED A CELLPHONE IN THE EU? - THEN GET ONE

On a recent trip to Rome I found myself enjoying the festivities of the once a year event “Note Bianco” or White Night. Romans and Italians flock to the city to enjoy over 1000 performers at 400 different venues throughout the city; all between the hours of 9pm and 6 am. Museums, monuments and churches are open to enjoy throughout the night. If you are in Italy in September, I strongly recommend you try and experience it.

While wading through the sea of Italians in Piazza Venezia, off to my right a stage with full size waterfall draped in bright colors of purple and green. Water constantly flowing as performers on trapeze swing in and out of the colorful flowing water. My right a jumbo tron with an impromptu performance by a local famous Italian actor. His recreation of the 1970’s comedy skit brought laughs and giggles from the crowd. The every-other-word I could understand left me with a chuckle of frustration in my attempt to hear and translate the performance.

My cousin Luigi was somewhere in the ocean of people and we were calling each other on our cell phones. I had brought my US cell phone with me and despite the $1 per minute charge; it was the only way to truly communicate while on the road.

“Luigi, Ciao! I am near the big statue in the middle, do you see me?” “Si, I arrive to you in a moment” he yelled in broken English. Just as I returned the phone to my hip pocket in relief that I had connected with my family, I felt one of many nudges and bumps from the constantly moving crowd. As an experienced traveler, after a nudge I automatically feel for my wallet just incase one of the professional pickpockets had chosen me as a target. Wallet, check, hotel key, check, gum check.. phone.. phone no check.. DAM.

My years of travel, my experience in dozens of countries had left me without the helpless feeling of being robbed until now. I did not even feel an inclieling of the stealth operation. The lifting of the pocket flap, the reach and grab of my unusually large pocket PC phone; amazing skill. I salute the thief and hope he enjoys the feeling of frustration as he realizes his latest prize is locked with a password.

With almost 3 weeks of travel left in Europe, meetings with clients and numerous calls to make and receive I went into panic mode trying to figure out how to replace my mobile communication device which I had grown to depend upon like a baby to their mother.

Should I have my office buy another and FedEx it overnight across the world. I knew you could rent phones in Europe but for an expensive rental fee and crazy per minute charges. By the time I had retuned home I would have spent 10 phones worth of minute charges, not an option.

First line of attack is asking a local.. “Luigi!” yes, maybe Luigi can use his pull and escort me to the special store and use his Italian ID to get another number that I could use. I would have to pose as a Luigi for the next several weeks and risk being arrested for impersonation of a family member, but it was worth it.. lets go!

“No Problemo” Luigi kept saying. He told me to go on my own and ask for an Italian phone number at the local cellular store. Could it be that easy? I remember years ago when the frustration of $1 per minute with my US phone was just too much to bear, I tried to do the same, but it ended quickly with the fact I did not have Italian or EU citizenship, so I swallowed the enormous cell bills I received on my return. Ok, I will try, maybe things have changed.

After several attempts to go the cellular store failed because of the “siesta” where everything closes between 12-4pm or on Monday morning when everything is closed until the afternoon, I finely arrived to an unlocked door on a sunny Tuesday morning in
Rome. VodaPhone’s office on Via del Corso was a slick operation with displays of mobile phones that felt more like viewing jewelry in a redau drive shop than just another cell shop.

Where do I start, they are going to think I am nuts, an American wanting an Italian cell number.. I’m wasting my time, I thought to myself as I took a number and stood in line. 34 was the number that may save me time and my sanity, but the counter read 16.. so I waited, wondering if I should be on the phone to my office explaining the huge amount of hassle I was going to put them though. But no, I will wait and see. 29, ding, 30 ding.. no one answers the calls; probably other Americans turned away in shame for even trying. Ding 34! That’s me! I go up to my smiling counter person and ask him in Italian if I can get a new phone here.. “Si, no problemo” We atomically switch to English as almost every conversation does. I want to polish my Italian, and they want to polish their English, so enviably we choose the later. Come on over, have a seat. “Do you have your passport” I hand it over from my money belt. A few types of his keyboard and he prints out a sheet of paper and circles my new number.. WOW! That’s it, where was the shame, pointing, endless paperwork.. ok well it has to cost a ton, I squint and ask “quante costa” and wait for the smack in the face. “10 Euro” What? Is that per minute? “No” wow, I just walked into a cell store and got a new mobile number in Italy for about $13. It cost three times that at home and that’s with a two year contract! “do you need a phone” quickly re-living my pickpocket experience in my mind, I nodded. Looking over my shoulder at the glowing cases of phones, people pursousing them as if they were looking at the royal jewels. Oh, I get it.. cheap number, expensive phone.. HA! There is always a catch. OK im prepared for the worst.. “Our phones start at 29 Euro” again amazed I choose the least expensive, opting for replacing my pocket PC phone on my return. I am handed a sleek little black Motorola phone, battery charged and ready to go. The phone would work anywhere in the world, amazing. My salesperson changed the phone menus over to English and began to explain how it works. As excited as a kid at Christmas I eagerly listen to his instruction. The phone works in almost every EU country at only 15 cents (Euro) per minute. If I call the USA its one dollar per minute, just like at home, but while I am traveling, 15 cents is great!... the phone comes with 5 Euro worth of minutes on it and I can re-charge my minutes at almost any VodaPhone shop in Europe. I can also go to any newspaper stand, tobacco shop or retailer and get a scratch off card of varying amounts and recharge by calling the number on the card.. wow, do they have his cellular thing down. I left the store riding high on my new accomplishment. A mobile phone, new number and a very low bill while traveling.. all for 39 Euro; about $45.

So ask yourself the question, should I take my own phone? Rent one there? NO, just go and buy one when you arrive. You will have it for all of your future trips to Europe, it will cost you less than at home, it will give you the peace of mind while abroad of being connected; it’s a no-brainer! The only catch I could find in the entire deal was you must make at least one phone call in a year, or the number expires. Just call a friend or one of your hotels to tell them how great your trip was and you have just reserved your number for another year.

Italy has one of the most complex and successful mobile networks in the world. The process is smooth, enjoyable and convenient. So the next time you find yourself without a phone or considering if you should take yours, think twice and enjoy the experience of becoming connected in Europe.

Ice Bars – The coolest place to visit in town

No matter if you are in Rome, Amsterdam, Paris, London or Dubai there is an alternative to the usual cocktail in the hotel bar or nearby pub. As the world shrinks and more and more people travel to the major hotspots of the world there are new, hip places to cool off with your favorite beverage. Ice bars hit the scene several years ago and have become a cult classic among travelers looking to chill. These establishments are actually made of ice; the walls, furniture, bar and even the cocktail glasses are made of crystal clear ice. Kept at a nose-numbing 5C/23F these bars offer a great venue to get away from the heat of a summer day and a hip addition to your photo scrap book.

The atmosphere in each one is quite lovely because the ice used is transparent and backlit in hues of purple, red, orange and blue LED's. Rotating sequences of changing color give the feeling of being in the fantasy ice wonderland of Narnia; "hey is that the White Witch sipping that cosmopolitan over there?" To avoid frostbite and keep you in the freezer long enough to buy a drink, the bars provide you with protection from the elements. London hands out a "designer thermal cape" while Amsterdam issues full length silver parkas that would make any glam celebrity feel right at home; the majority of the bars offer gloves and hats as well. Now that you are protected from the chill it's time to get down to business; cover charges in London will set you back 12 pounds (15 on weekends) and an average of 15 Euros at the other spots . The cover charge includes one drink; with or without alcohol and your gear. London throws in your own "personal ice glass" but also limits your stay to 40 minutes.

Some have scored big name sponsors like Absolut's Ice Bar London and The Ice Kube by Greygoose in Paris. Sponsorship means a larger venue with more elaborate ice sculptures such as a full igloo, throne and "dude at the bar" made of ice in Paris and London's elaborate ice walls with nooks and crannies to sit and enjoy your cocktail. Amsterdam and Rome are small venues but just as cool; no pun intended. Despite the parka, hat and gloves the average stay is about 30 minutes which is a smart idea for quick turnaround. The Dubai Ice bar hires "cold climate acclimated" staff from Romania and Russia because they don't mind working long hours in freezing conditions. London, Rome and Paris employ locals to work the snow jobs, so tip them well.

The choice of beverages is elaborate. A wide selection of vodka, top shelf liquors, beer, wine, hot tea and coffee drinks; all warm you from the inside out. After the first round, which is included, prices are very reasonable. Amsterdam's drink menu offers soda and beer for 2.50 euro, top shelf brands starting at 3 euro and wine for under 4 euro; a great value compared to other trendy clubs, hotel bars or even room service.

Ice bars may be the coolest way to unwind on vacation since the invention of the ski lodge. To book your next vacation to London, Amsterdam Paris or any ice bar in Europe, contact Travel 4 Real at info@travel4real.com or visit our web portal at www.travel4real.com

The Hopper Flight Scenario - Saving $$ on airfare

For those of you who have attended my lectures, classes or public events in the last few years you may recognize a term I coined; The Hopper Flight Scenario. I believe this method of researching your airfare may be the most important part of planning a trip and will yield the highest savings of any one thing you can do. I don't believe I invented the process because professional travelers like myself have been using these methods for years; but as far as I know, no one has packaged it into a process which anyone can follow.

Lets start where 99% of people begin; airfare. Just after your voice box utters the phrase "lets go to… " " then the wheels begin to spin on where to get the best price for a ticket to get to " " Most of us go immediately to the internet to websites like Orbitz, Expedia or a favorite airline site such as Delta, American or British Air. We begin the random placement of dates, departure times, cities and such, and continue to spin the roulette wheel of entries until a price, departure time and date seems to be what we are looking for. Many people "site hop" to cross compare trying to beat the last site they visited lowest price. Others go to their trusty travel agent who will do exactly the same process with slightly different search tools and may or may not come back with a lower price. All in all the airfare search process is a game that most of us hate to play. The majority of these searches produce a combination of airlines, connection cities and layover times to get the price low. Many travelers just use their favorite airline to get frequent flyer miles but may pay more for the few miles they gain and can never, ever redeem when they want, due to blackout dates or random policy changes.

The Hopper Flight Scenario applies to Europe, but can be applied to regional airlines in the US as well. For this example, let's say you want to go to Rome from Seattle. The first step in the process feels a little out of whack but will make sense later. Go to your favorite source for air, no matter if it's the airline website, mega travel site or local travel agent and ask for the price for round trip from your city, in this case Seattle to one of four destinations in Europe; London, Amsterdam, Dublin and Paris. From those locations pick exactly what you want in departure times, travel time, layovers and connection city; get it the way you want it. Pay attention and keep the overall cost as low as possible but keep the details of the trip as close to ideal for you as possible.

The second part of the puzzle involves the use of one of the most successful concepts known to travel today; the low cost carrier. For some reason Europe knows how to do it right offering flights between major cities for mere pennies. Europeans have been savvy travelers using these options for years to hop between places like London to Amsterdam or Paris to Rome. These flights sell all day long for usually under Euro 100. How do they do that you say? Well the pricing structure is quite complicated and prices can range between one cent; yes one cent to several hundred dollars depending on the time of day, season (high or low) or if you are trying to fly on a holiday. The carriers also use the no frills model with no first or business class, no seating assignments, no complementary drinks or snacks and strict luggage weight requirements. All the restrictions and lack of creature comforts means deep savings when traveling within Europe. Many times it is less expensive to take a flight than it is to take the train. One of the major players is Ryan air which is the most profitable airline in the world. The Dublin, Ireland based airline operates new aircraft to hundreds of destinations within Europe for fares as low as one penny each way during one of their online sales. One thing you can't do is get any of these tickets from your local travel agent. Fares are only sold online and fares change not every day but every hour so you must be on your best trip planning game when attempting to find the lowest price.

Putting the pieces of the hopper flight scenario together to save you money takes a little homework but will pay off big. To give you an idea what it looks like when it's done correctly here is an example of the Hopper Flight Scenario at its best.

Major Carrier vs. Major Carrier + Hopper – Seattle Washington to Rome Italy

Seattle to Rome on one carrier, round trip– June 2009; result: Northwest Airlines price USD $1724 per person – source orbitz.com

Seattle to London on one carrier, round trip – June 2009; result: Northwest $985 RT pp + Hopper Flight, London to Rome RT € 116.00 = about USD $150.00. – source easyjet.com -Total Price USD $1135 per person

SAVINGS of $589 PER PERSON!

So as you can see The Hopper Flight Scenario pays off big time if you are willing to put in the time and energy to put all the little bits in place. Needless to say its not all good news; there is a downside to taking hopper flights that is worth telling you about.

The majority of low cost carriers do not fly into the major airports but secondary, smaller airports like Ciampino (CIA) instead of the major Fiumicino (Leonardo da Vinci) (FCO). This means a longer trek to get to or from when flying in or out.

Low cost European carriers have very low baggage weight allowances. Luggage allowances are 10kg (22 Lbs) for hand luggage and 20kg (44 Lbs) for items checked on most carriers. To Americans; 44 pounds is just the shoes we are bringing and with some airlines charging up to 10 euro per kilo over the allowance; your budget ticket can soon turn expensive.

Lastly the low cost carriers offer a limited number of flights per day so making them work with your arrival or departure times, connection times and layovers takes some skill. On average there are two flights per day; morning and evening.

As you can see the hassle factor is quite high when using The Hopper Flight Scenario but the payoff can mean the difference between having to watch your pennies during the trip or "waiter another bottle of your finest please"

If you like the results but don't want to deal with all the homework; my USA office would be happy to do it for you. Give them a call at 425.355.3711 or info@travel4real.com

Rome’s new terminal 5 is a big hassle

Recently on a return flight back to the USA I got to experience the new Terminal 5 at Leonardo da Vinci Airport (FCO); also known as Fiumicino. For those of you who have heard me speak or have read my other writings; I speak of the "hassle factor" and the new terminal brings the hassle factor to a new level for international travelers. The powers that be have built a new terminal about 800 meters from the main international terminal C; in April 2008 the new 14,000m² terminal 5 was opened (designed by AdR Engineering), which was designed to handle 950,000 passengers a year. The project required an investment of €10m and took a little less than six months to complete. The terminal has completely separate check-in, security passport control and baggage handling systems (1,800 units an hour) allowing it to be used as a completely dedicated international terminal.

In the past if you were flying on Delta, American, United or other US carriers you departed from C; but now the majority of flights on these carriers depart from the new terminal 5. The hassle factor begins to show its head the moment you arrive to the airport. If you are arriving to the airport by car or taxi you are in luck because you can drive right up to the new terminal, but if you arrive by air or rail (Leonardo Express) from the rail station in Rome then you must take a shuttle bus located outside terminal C. This does not sound that bad but remember this is Italy and things are not spelled out for you like they might be back home. First; if you are in a taxi they just drop you off at terminal C which is where all "tourists" get let off, so I suggest you check your flights the night before so you can tell the driver where to drop you off.

So let's say you are in Terminal C and need to get to Terminal 5, you need to take the shuttle bus. Well the sign for the new terminal 5 is outside just in front of the entrance doors of terminal C at the far end, the sign says "shuttle bus to terminal 5", BUT the shuttle bus stop is actually about 200 yards away from the sign. This means that you have a bunch of people waiting by the sign and not at the correct stop. I was waiting at the wrong place until I realized that the area around the sign did not have enough room for a bus to stop so I began looking around and found the shuttle stop up a bit. 4 people were left at the sign as the shuttle bus passed them by during my experience, so I am sure there will be more. Then there is the actual shuttle bus itself. Imagine a standard city bus, then cut it in half, so it's way too small. Unlike some shuttle busses like the rental car company's use that have luggage racks and big aisles, this bus does not. There is no room for luggage so it gets piled in the aisle of the bus on people's feet in empty seats ect, so the hassle factor meter is on high at this point.

Once you get to the terminal you are relieved because its large, new and well organized. You go through the Disney Land style switchback line up to the counter and the security lines are plentiful and easy. After security you are taken into a general waiting area where another bus picks you up. This can be confusing because you think you are walking to your gate but you are only going to a transfer point. A bus picks you up and then drives you through the runway area back to Terminal C! Why did I just go through all of that to be right back in Terminal C? Good question!

Maybe because it just opened 5 months ago they don't have the process perfected. I hope, hope that they get that shuttle issue dealt with and the transfer back to Terminal C is completely bizarre. Now that you are informed you should be just fine. Come to Italy with me next year.. www.italy4real.com

Rem Featured on AOL Travel

Inside Scoop: Travel Agents

By TERRY WARD

"Rem Malloy, president of Seattle-based Italy 4 Real -- a tour agency offering escorted tours in Italy -- books his flights to Europe by piecing together airfares from different carriers. It can lead to substantial savings, he says. “I call it the hopper flight scenario,” says Malloy, who travels to Europe several times a year and usually uses Orbitz to book the transatlantic portion.

“Say you want to go from Seattle to Rome, round trip. Choose an airport on the edge of the European continent closest to the US to fly into,” says Malloy, referring to airports such as London, Amsterdam, Dublin and Paris. “What you do is get a roundtrip flight from your US departure point to one of those cities, and then you use a European low cost hopper flight -- airlines like Easy Jet or Ryan Air -- to hop to Rome or wherever your final destination is.”

Malloy says this method has saved him as much as $500 on an entire round trip over using Orbitz for the entire ticket. “And the money you save can go a long way in compensating for the bad exchange rate,” he says."

Sorrento Spa Experience Amazing

 

Sorrento and the surrounding coastline of the Bay of Naples is a wonderland of natural and thermal spas. During my short visit to Sorrento on business I decided to visit Ulysses which advertises itself as a Therm and day spa.

I made an appointment for a 50 min relaxation massage and access to their Therm Spa. I was not sure what to expect on the spa end but they said Jacuzzi, sauna ect; so it sounded interesting and refreshing.

I arrived at 3pm and wend down a few flights to go through glass doors to the reception desk. You could see the Olympic size lap pool with about 7 lanes and a very impressive workout area with Nautilus type machines.

The receptionist spoke good English and took me down a few flights of stairs into the darkness. We arrived to a very small area with small desk, white tile floor and one chair. Frosted glass door ahead and off to the right modern and clean changing rooms, bathrooms and lockers. Dim lights set a relaxing mood the second you get off the last step of the stairs. I am given a bath robe and locker key and go change. Swimsuits and flip flops required, but if you don't have any they have these paper thin disposable ones that work just fine.

So in my robe I am given the tour. I come out of the changing rooms and am taken past the frosted glass door with very low light behind. We open and go through. The first thing you notice is the mood lighting set into the floor edges and roof edges and the walls are rock which gives it a natural feel. The lights are dim but enough to see everything. Deep greens and blues, orange and red lights set a very peaceful atmosphere. I just arrived when they opened at three so there are no other customers; I have the entire place to myself. The room is big and you see a main pool; called "Turkish Bath" with deep green and blue dark lights, connected to that is a Jacuzzi that could fit about 8 people surrounded by large boulder walls and orange lighting.. very dramatic. The main pool has a waterfall which they call the "Neck Massage Fountain" that comes out of a pillar about 6 feet off the water and so the sound of the strong flow of water hitting the pool surface reflects throughout the entire spa. Different rooms with glass walls can be seen off to the right and left, the feel is relaxing, clean and inviting.

So the women in white pants and shirt shows me around. First is a place to leave your robe and flops and a semi-circle tilled shower, ok this looks standard fare I think to myself, then she take me around a small tiled wall into another single shower nook with two buttons on the wall, "aroma therapy shower" and "Spectrochrome" she says.. hmm that sounds nice.. ok cool what else.

A large wet steam room with rock walls and horseshoe black tile seats, a large dry sauna, standard fare so far but nice and large so you don't feel so close to your other spa people is great. Those are both hot zones and next to the dry sauna is a shower with glass door but the interesting thing is the Italian countryside wood bucket with thick white woven rope attached to the wall about 7 feet off the ground. Kind of looks like the bottom of a wine barrel with pull rope; its going to dump something on you, I wonder what.

Next is a large room with clear glass walls and about 15 wave shaped relaxation chairs, dim lights, mood music with nature sounds of water bubbling, birds chirping, and crickets. A single green blue light in the corner gives just enough light to bathe the room in dim color. In the center of the circle of chairs is cups and a pump of hot tea. "This is the relaxation room and herbal tea salon" she explains.

Next to the "I'm going to fall asleep in there and spill hot tea all over myself" room is another shower area with dark brown tile; a huge raindrop showerhead and a frosted glass pedestal lit with white light inside and what looks like large granular crystals piled up on top and a silver button.. wow what is this going to do..

Next is a very small pool about mid-shin depth split in two sections with river stone on the bottom and blue, red and green rotating lights under the clear water on each side. Steps and a stainless steel hold bar complete this interesting space. "Kneipp Walk and Circulation pool" she explains, "ohhhh very nice" is my reply and I'm set free to experience this wonderland of spa experiences.

So unsure where to start I go back to the simple tile shower and wet down. I head for the rock sauna. Hot steam with cold water fountain in the middle. Looks like the sauna could fit about 20 people. Nice relaxing instrumental music is piped in. A few older local women come in and two American tourists, the tours start for them when I'm in the Sauna.

Being the typical multi-tasking, ambitious and busy American; its hard to relax so I begin to write this article in my mind in the sauna and think "hey aren't I supposed to be relaxing now" The sauna is very hot and enjoyable for sure. I'm eager to try out the other areas so after my body temp gets to "lava" I hop out an head toward the aromatherapy shower with the two buttons. The area is good size for one person and well lit with standard white light; I decide to try the top button first.

I press and immediately the white light goes out and a deep bright red light comes on; imaging the scenes in submarine movies when the captain yells "dive, dive dive" and the light switches over to a "see in the dark red" as they head for the depths. At the same time a semi-heavy shower mist starts and the faint smell of flowers fills the space, wow this is nice and the water temp changes from warm to cool over the three or four minute cycle.

"That was great" I say out loud. I am ready for the bottom button… I press it and a dark blue light blasts on and the strong shower mist changes to a very delicate fine mist. A very nice strong menthol, eukylipitous aroma permeates the area; it feels great to take deep breaths. I'm starting to relax and enjoy this area so much I go through four cycles of each back to back… ahhhh.

Ok what's next? I decide to stay in order, so it's off to the dry sauna. The dry sauna looks like it could fit about 10 people comfortably and its very hot. I don't know what the temp was but it seemed hotter than the gym back home and takes a little getting used to. Blue/green soft lights and light music with nature sounds fills the ridiculously hot cedar wood filled space; I won't last long.

As I heat up and glance around for where I will pass out if I stay one moment more I decide to keep it short and dart out and into the shower area with the wood bucket with white rope. Dying to cool off I go under the bucket and pull hard on the rope not knowing if it will be wine, boiling oil or water… WhHOOOOO' ICE cold water dumps all over you. This water is so cold it feels like it was shipped in from the top of the Swiss Alps; it's shocking but very wonderful.

So I have been heated up, cooled down and now I'm ready for the split hot/cold walking pools or the Kneipp Walk as its known among spa regulars. The river rock floor of the two shallow pools looks like it will hurt to walk on but here goes. The first toe in and the temp is hot.. I bet about 120 degrees. The river rock bottom at first is "oh, ah, ouch" like walking on a hot beach but after a few steps you are hopping along then step out on the end, turn and begin the second side. Cold, very, very cold; the second side is a shocker as you walk your hot skin turns cold and your feet and ankles tingle, it's intense but feels good. I could only go around a few times before I was ready for flat, even temp ground; but I will go back to work on doing that one longer.

A fast few steps and I am standing under the waterfall and it's just glorious. The water is so far up the pillar that when it hits your neck it feels like a thousand hands doling the "chop chop" on your neck; it's great!

The water of the Turkish Bath is about 98 degrees, full of minerals and is very slippery. I let the "chop chop" do its thing for about 10 minutes.. I am very relaxed and have stopped thinking about work or writing this blog. I hop into the connected jacuzzi that is surrounded by rock to heat back up. The Jacuzzi will fit about 10 people but I have it to myself. I have been in the Therm for about 45 min and there are only 4 others enjoying this place.. It's great because I know in the height of the summer months I'm sure it's packed.

So with my body temp up to Mt. Vesuvius levels I go toward the second to last item; the brown shower with white light podium, crystal pile and silver button. I open the large clear glass door and the pile of crystals on the podium is ice, yes a pile of fresh small granular ice, a little bigger than slushy ice.

I press the silver button and a light cool mist begins to flow. What you do is scrub all over with the ice under the mist, at first it's a shock to the system but this is the one I kept on going back to.. it was wonderful and refreshing. The brochure calls this oasis of cold pleasure the "Ice Grotto" After some time in the Grotto im going to want to wire my refrigerators ice maker to my shower at home!

Off to the relaxation room. Wave shaped chairs that put you in a recline position with your legs at about bellybutton level and have soft thick padding are very comfortable. You go in through large clear glass doors and clear glass walls allow for a clear view of the entire spa. Rock covered walls, soft lighting, mood music with nature sounds and hot tea make this room very inviting.

Wrapped up in my robe; before you know it I'm just above sleep, hot tea is perfect and thank goodness I did not spill. A few people come in and talk which breaks the relaxing mood of the room but the environment eventually takes its grip on them and the room is again silent as people let go of their day and relax.

After this great Thermal Spa experience I top it off with a 50 min relaxation massage. The masseuse was professional and I felt very comfortable, the massage was of the quality of any high end spa back in the states.

One great aspect of this spa and fitness center is that you will not feel out of place, too large, too small or without the proper European swimsuit accessories. The environment is welcoming to all and later in the afternoon there were families enjoying the fitness classes upstairs.

If you are in the Amalfi Coast and want to take a special break away from the normal tourist shopping, walking to much then back to the hotel routine, then I suggest finding one of the many unique and special Therms located in Sorrento and along the coast. The island of Ischia is about one hour by boat from Sorrento and is a Mecca of natural thermal spas and springs.

The most amazing thing about this experience? The full day at the Thermal Spa was 20 Euro and the 50 min massage was only 45 euro; you would spend more on a diner or gaudy ceramic plate for your sister! Nuf said!

Day 7 - Rimini to San Gimignano

See more photos and details of this great tour here

See photos of the tour group having fun here

Its time to move on from San Marino and Rimini across the center of the country toward the regions of Umbria and Tuscany to our final stop of the day San Gimignano.

On our way we will make a special stop in Cortona. Cortona was put on the map by the film "Under the Tuscan Sun" from Frances Mayes's 1996 memoir by the same name.

When we leave the seaside town of Rimini we will travel through the rich green and hilly lands toward Rimini. Along the way we see the terrain change from flat to mountainess. Ancient Roman signaling towers are see upon the tops of hills used in ancient times to communicate with Rome along vast areas of land.

Cortona was founded by the Etruscans who were the ancient people of Italy dating back to 800 BC. Cortona was established around the 10th century and was just another castle hill town on the border of Umbria and Tuscany until the film was released.

Cortona Stats:

Region :Tuscany
Province :Arezzo (AR)
Mayor: Andrea Vignini (since June 2004)
Elevation: 494 m (1,621 ft)
Area: 342.33 km2 (132 sq mi)
Population: (as of 31-08-2007) - Total 22,777
Coordinates: 43°16′32″N, 11°59′17″E
Dialing code: 0575
Postal code: 52044

Now it attracts thousands of tourists per year but still maintains its small, castle hill town feel. Cortona is a great stop over for lunch or short visit. The area is an ideal place to base to explore the region of Umbria.

Our group arrives around lunch time for a two hour visit. Clients get to stretch their legs, eat a light lunch and take some photos of the quaint town.

Some café’s and shops have photos of Diane Lane during her free time from shooting the film, others have oil paintings from local artists.

If you want to take a break away from the shops then Cortona offers amazing views of the Umbrian and Tuscan countryside.

The weather is perfect for our visit. The coach can’t part up in the old town so we must drop the clients and take the coach down during their time exploring this unique town.

Day 6 - San Marino

The most unique and different locations are a very important factor in the design of this tour. Learn more about the tour here. When the tour was being designed San Marino was one of the places we wanted to take our guests.

When you visit San Marino you are leaving Italy; going to a completely different country or independent republic; like Vatican City.

History (from visitsanmarino.com)

In the Republic of San Marino, the veneration of the Saint who, according to legend, founded the Republic, is extremely deep-rooted and widespread. The legend narrates how this master stone-cutter left his native island of Arbe in Dalmatia and came to Mount Titano to establish a small community of Christians anxious to escape the persecutions of the emperor Diocletian. What is certain is that the area had been inhabited since prehistoric times, but the earliest definite evidence of a Monastery, a Parish Church and a Castle, which confirm the existence of an organised community on Mount Titano, only dates back to the middle-ages. At a time when the authority of the Empire was waning and the temporal power of the Pope had not yet been established, the local population, like those of numerous other Italian city states, decided to give themselves some form of government. Hence a free city was born. And while other Italian cities each dedicated their freedom to a saint, so the small community on Mount Titano, in memory of the legendary figure of Marinus, the stone-cutter, called itself “Land of San Marino”, later “Free city of San Marino” and finally “Republic of San Marino”. This is how the social fabric of the Republic originated. Government was entrusted to an assembly of the heads of families called the “Arengo” presided over by a Rector. Always anxious to promote peaceful relations and goodwill, this assembly drew up and promulgated the first laws, the Statutes, inspired by the principles of democracy. As the community grew, a Captain Defender was appointed to share the responsibility of the executive with the Rector. It was only in 1243 that the first two Consuls, the Captains Regent, were elected to office for a period of six months; a twice-yearly appointment made regularly since then right up to the present day, thereby confirming the validity and efficiency of the institutions and, in particular, of the Regency. And it was thanks to the wisdom which inspired the ancient free city of San Marino that the community was able to overcome perilous situations and consolidate its independence. The events of history were complicated and their outcomes often uncertain. In the end though the love of freedom enabled the free city to maintain its liberty. Particularly significant were the disputes with the Bishops of Montefeltro who demanded the payment of a tribute. The people of San Marino however finally established their rights and achieved political and administrative emancipation. Neither were they fainthearted when it came to defending the walls of the town with their now legendary crossbows or to taking part in numerous struggles alongside the Montefeltros of Urbino, champions of the Ghibelline party. The territory of San Marino barely extended beyond Mount Titano in 1463 when the Republic entered into an alliance against Sigismondo Pandolfo Malatesta, Lord of Rimini who was defeated. As a reward, Pope Pius II Piccolomini gave San Marino the towns of Fiorentino, Montegiardino and Serravalle. The town of Faetano, of its own accord, joined the Republic in that same year. Since then, the size of the country has never changed. The Republic of San Marino was twice occupied by military forces, but only for a few months at a time: in 1503 by Cesare Borgia, known as Valentino, and in 1739 by Cardinal Giulio Alberoni. Freedom from Borgia came after the tyrant died, while in the case of Cardinal Alberoni, civil disobedience was used to protest against this abuse of power and clandestine messages were sent to obtain justice from the Pope who recognised San Marino’s rights and restored the state of independence. In 1797, Napoleon offered gifts and friendship to San Marino and expressed the wish to extend its territorial boundaries. The people of San Marino were very grateful and honoured by such generosity, but refused with instinctive wisdom to enlarge their territory, satisfied as they were with the “status quo”
In the year 1861, Abraham Lincoln showed his friendship and sympathy for San Marino when he wrote among other things to the Captains Regent “Although your dominion is small, nevertheless your State is one of the most honoured throughout history..” San Marino boasts an exceptional tradition of hospitality. This free country has never refused asylum or help to those persecuted by misfortune or tyranny, whatever their condition or ideas. Suffice it here to mention just two of the many examples that could be quoted: in 1849, when Giuseppe Garibaldi was surrounded by three enemy armies after the fall of the Roman Republic, he found unexpected safety for himself and his surviving companions in San Marino. During the last World War, San Marino gave protection to over 100,000 refugees.
Today the Republic is independent, democratic and neutral, and although it continues to remain faithful to its ancient traditions, it is becoming ever more responsive to the call of progress.

San Marino is a magical castle in the sky. High above the sea overlooking the countryside near Rimini, San Marino is one of the most unique places on earth.

The history of this country within a country is explained to our client by their own private guide during a one hour tour of the town. The clients learn the history and get to visit the church where they can see the remains of St. Marino; whose head is incased in gold and kept in a glass crypt only to be taken out one day each September for the celebration of the town.

Shops and museums abound and one unique thing you will find in San Marino is ancient armory including swords, shields, helmets and bows all dating back to ancient times. Masterful reproductions can be purchased if you want to take back a piece of history.
Free time for lunch after the tour or a hike to one of three remote towers of the castle that overlook the countryside. San Marino is a photographer’s paradise. Don’t forget to catch the changing of the guard at the palace located in the main square, each day, and each hour on the half hour.

When you are in San Marino you have the feeling you are in the middle of a movie set or have gone back in time to the days of knights in shining armor. The stone walls, ancient armor museum and castle in the sky are very unique. www.visitsanmarino.com will give you more information. www.italy4real.com will tell you how you can join me on this wonderful tour.

Rimini - Day 5 - The FEAST

Read about how you can join this amazing tour here!

We arrive to Rimini just after lunch time. Rimini is the largest resort area on the Adriatic side of Italy but I has a small feel. On our way to the hotel we cruise by and show the clients the best places to explore, shop and eat, then we pull into the hotel. Our hotel has won the best on the beach award for the last several years and is considered by many the best beach hotel on the entire coastline. Each guest will have a sea view room with a huge balcony overlooking the sea; a great place to relax. We check in and the group has free time until we meet for dinner in the early evening. Many will nap, walk on the sandy flat beaches or explore the shops near the hotel. The tour has a relaxed feel and pace so there is no rush to do anything which is what you need in a good vacation.

Rimini is located on the Adriatic side of Italy in the Emilia-Romagna region of Italy and is the capital city of the Province of Rimini. Today is has about 138,000 people but grows several million during the summer months as Italians close their shops, schools and head to the beach every year in August.

Rimini is a pure beach resort down and when the sun goes down the city comes alive. The beachgoers of the day become the fun seekers of the night with pubs, live music and street festivals that sprout in Rimini during the summer months. Rimini is very family oriented and there are no drunken revelers about but just people enjoying themselves listening to music, strolling, talking and eating.

One of the highlights of the tour happens in Rimini on the day we arrive. “The FEAST” as we like to call it on tour. When my mother and I were scouting the route for the tour we wanted only the best local experience possible for our clients so we searched high and low for just the right place.

A friend recommended a restaurant located in the countryside outside of Rimini. After one try we were hooked. Ever since that first taste experience we never went anywhere else and have brought our clients to this special place year after year.

Located just outside of Rimini in the countryside of Rimini in an ancient farm house lies the best restraint we have ever experienced in Italy. If you want to find out the name you will have to join our tour. Learn more by clicking here.

The average night involves 14 courses over 3 or 4 hours. Each item from the wine to the cheeses are homemade fresh by the establishment. There are no menus for our group. Once we arrive we are greeted by a glass of local wine, pickled onions and breadsticks. Then comes the appetizers; 5 or 6 different platters of the best food you have ever tasted begin to come to the table. Sliced beef, cheeses, breads, pork, just to name a few. Fresh local white and red wine begins to flow. The group releases “ohhh” and “aaaaah” as the plates hit the table and “mmmmmm’s” can be heard from that point on.

As the appetizers are devoured there is a sort pause where you can talk, sip wine and relax. This is slow food at its best; there is no rush here.

Next arrives the first pasta course. Family style platters of homemade pasta and ravioli come on sliver platters to both ends of the long table. The sauces are light, fresh and so flavorful. The ravioli is stuffed with homemade cheese that is warm and creamy. The pasta has peppers, bacon and spices with just the right amount of kick. The clients are in heaven.

The pasta is enjoyed like it is the last dinner they will ever have but we are not even close to being finished. Next arrives the second course.. meat. Imagine the best beef filet you have ever tasted, sliced, cooked perfectly and sprinkled with olive oil and Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese. Rich lamb in gravy is next with fresh vegetables accompanying the meats. The flavors are intense and the conversation has been on how amazing the food is for the last hour.

The clients are laughing, talking and having a genuinely good time. Many are truly relaxing which is good to see.

Time to stretch your legs after the second course. Many explore the ancient farm house, take photos of the kitchen and the display of plated food for the other customers. After a few moments of rest the desert arrives. Homemade ice cream with cream sauce, chocolate sauce and a dusting of powdered sugar. The clients who has said they cannot eat one more bite are the first to dive into their new found sweet paradise placed in front of them.

The ice cream is gone before you know it and then the staff brings small clear glasses to each of the guests. “what’s next” a client asks.. “a nightcap” I reply. The staff then brings fresh homemade Limoncello and grappa to the table. We begin to pour small tastes of each for everyone. Everyone sits back with their favorite after dinner drink and talks, relaxes and enjoys the unique experience.

Limoncello is a lemon liqueur produced in Southern Italy, mainly in the region around the Gulf of Naples, the Sorrentine Peninsula and the coast of Amalfi and islands of Procida, Ischia and Capri, but also in Sicily, Sardinia, Menton in France and the Maltese island of Gozo. It is made from lemon rinds (traditionally from the Sorrento lemon, though most lemons will produce satisfactory limoncello), alcohol, water, and sugar. It is bright yellow in color, sweet and lemony, but not sour since it contains no lemon juice.

Make Limoncello at home:

Ingredients

• · 8 lemons
• · 1 liter of etílic alcohol
• · 1 liter of mineral water
• · 600 grams of sugar

Soak the rinds in the alcohol for a week. Dissolve the sugar in the water (lukewarm) and add the alcohol (without the rinds). Let it get cold and put it into the refrigerator. Wait a week until you drink it.

Grappa is a fragrant grape-based pomace brandy of between 50% and 80% alcohol by volume (100 to 160 proof), of Italian origin. Literally "grape stalk", most grappa is made by distilling pomace, grape residue (mainly the skins, but also stems and seeds) left over from winemaking after pressing. It was originally made to prevent waste by using leftovers at the end of the wine season. It quickly became commercialized, mass-produced, and sold worldwide. Some grappa, known as prima uva, is made with the whole grapes. The flavor of grappa, like that of wine, depends on the type and quality of the grape used as well as the specifics of the distillation process. Grappa was originally made in the northern Italian town of Bassano del Grappa, and some contend that this is the origin of the name, rather than from the Latin graspa – from Wikipedia.

Coffee, espresso or tea for anyone who wants it as the night slows down. We have been eating for over 3 hours but is seems much shorter because everyone is so focused on the relaxing environment that time seems to stand still.

We take photos of the table and make our final toasts to the fantastic evening then we make our way back to the coach for the short late night drive back to the hotel.

Tomorrow is San Marino!