http://www.italy4real.com/escorted_13day.php
I like to have late departures for the group because it lets everybody sleep in or go out in the AM and find that last special photograph or souvenir. I set bag call for 9:30 and we depart from the hotel at 10 am sharp. Everyone has breakfast and some great Italian "cafe con latte" (coffee and hot milk) and some great pastries. As we make our way from the hotel, conversations of free time, wonderful restaurants found and amazing museums are the walking talk of the morning.
Our coach is freshly washed and Arone our driver is ready and waiting suit and tie perfect. The luggage has already arrived to the coach and everybody boards for the 3 hour drive to Rimini.
Back in the 1990's when my mother and I decided to open Italy 4 Real we wanted our signature tour to be unique.
These are the things we DID NOT want in our tour
1. Too many people on the tour, wanted it to be small under 17
2. In one day and out the next, you feel more tired after your vacation then before you started.
3. Same boring Italy route.. Venice, Florence and Rome
Things we WANT in our tour
1. Off the beaten path locations
2. Focus on the "real" Italy while visiting the big cities
3. Max 16 people so we can get in great small hotels and restaurants
4. Unique visits to unique places
5. Great food
So when we lived in Italy and were planning the route, Rimini was and still is not found on any itinerary. I believe that Rimini and its Med coastline represent the real "Italian Riviera." When I think of Riviera, I think of sandy beaches, parasols, and avenues of shops. The "Official" Italian riviera is over on the west coast of the country which is rocky, like the Oregon coastline or Big Sir. The east coast is flat as far as the eye can see, full of beach, shops, people and fun.
Another BIG reason that we go to Rimini is San Marino. When Napoleon was conquering through Europe he offered sovereignty to Saint Marino. From that point on San Marino was an independent republic; completely separate from Italy and Europe; much like Vatican City or Liechtenstein.
San Marino has its own border patrol and crossing, currency (now the Euro, San Marino money is collector item) and government.
Back on the coach the clients are settled in. The flat land of the Veneto region passes by. We head toward Bologna where the roads intersects and travels east toward the coast.
Travel Tip If you are planning to drive from the Northeast part of Italy to anywhere below Bologna, try and make your travel day during the week and not on a weekend. The Autostrada (http://www.autostrade.it/en/index.html); Italy's major highway system intersects at Bologna and the weekend is when everyone travels down south to Umbria, Tuscany and cities like Florence, the road can be a traffic jam that lasts all day long in the high season months.
Just past Bologna we stop for lunch on the Autostrata. Italy's highway system is quite amazing because it is tolled and they put every cent back into the road and services on it. The Autostrada has some of the best road food found anywhere. Fresh carved roast beef, salmon grilled to order, pasta with fresh sauce made right in front of your eyes; the Autostrada is a feast with clean bathrooms, fine wines, cheeses, cd's, DVD's and great espresso.
After a good lunch, stretch of the legs and a good strong shot of coffee we continue toward Rimini. We arrive to Rimini and take a quick orientation tour of the area in our coach. The beach on one side of the stret, hotels and shops on the other. People are crossing back and forth from their rented chairs and umbrellas to their hotel. The dance of the beach goers is preformed each sunny day like clockwork.
Premo Italiano Day 3 & 4 Verona & Venice
www.italy4real.com/escorted_13day.php
We awake to sunny sky’s, the smell of fresh bread and coffee float through the air of the breakfast room of our palace on Lake Maggiore. Windows one story high show us the sun and mist of the lake beyond the pampered lawns and glistening pool of the hotel. The group is full of energy and fill their bellies with meats, cheeses, yogurts, fresh baked sweets, cappuccino, espresso and tea. The big breakfast is a welcome start to the day ahead. We board our coach that has been freshly washed and spruced up by our driver each morning, settle in for the drive to the city of love; Verona.
Verona is the home of Romeo and Juliet’s balcony; a grand coliseum that now hosts world class theater and some of the best shops found between Milan and Venice. We stop here for a few hours and lunch on our way to Venice. Verona is to me only a stopover because its small and so close to Venice that it’s hard to justify an overnight there. We offload on to the busy streets of Verona and I guide the group to the main square. We stop for the bathroom; talk about the meeting point and time then we head down the marble laden shopping street toward the famous romantic balcony.
They say it’s a fable; some say its true, but no matter the reason behind the story; today we stand before a small stone balcony where the most powerful story of love is displayed for all to see. People from all over the world come to this spot; not to just see the balcony and touch the statue of Juliet in the courtyard but to profess their love on the walls, stones, windows and doors of the courtyard in pen, pencil, notepad or napkin. Thousands of love notes surround us; layer upon layer of ink tell the story of young, old and dying love of the thousands who have visited this spot. If you are able to look beyond the tourists snapping photos, vendors selling R&J t-shirts you may be able to feel and see the unique place that people have chosen to display their love of one another. In a world where we see so much violence, despair and war; I think it is refreshing to see a courtyard devoted to love; an oasis of positive energy.
Its free time for a few hours and the group shuffles off into the crowds to explore. Some go to lunch, some the outdoor market. Verona offers something for everyone even if for only a few fleeting moments.
After Verona we continue on to one of my favorite places on earth, Venice.
Created out of the desperate need to survive from the invasion of the Barbarians from the North; Venetians created one of the most amazing and unique cities in the world. As we arrive to the check point; the process all groups must complete on the edge of Italy’s major cites; I can smell the salt of the sea and the energy of the group begins to increase as each person is ready to see the city built on water. We cross the causeway with Venice in the foreground; you can see construction cranes on the horizon used to save the city from crumbling ancient foundations holding up massive amounts of weight. The bell tower of St. Marks Square darts above the rooftops. We pull in to Piazza Roma where we offload our luggage. The process that our groups luggage goes through is a complicated dance of land, boat and canal travel to reach our hotel. We double check the number of bags ands our belongings are loaded onto a boat; we begin to walk.
Our hotel is a lovely little family run property in Baroque style. Fabric walls, Murano glass chandeliers in wood beamed rooms. The hotel is only a three bridge walk to arrive which is a wonderful treat considering that Venice has over 400 of them.
We check in and have a few hours to relax before I show the clients how to get around the city on the sea. After a quick nap, a stroll or check of the e-mail, the clients meet me in the lobby. I guide them over to the Vaporetto, Venice’s water bus. The “VEP” system is the only way to get around Venice. Each boat is a lumbering people mover that covers every major area of the city in efficient, regular-scheduled glory. Imagine your local city bus and how many places it goes in your city and then replace the streets with water; and wa-la you have the Venice Vaporetto system. http://www.actv.it/english/home.php
Ticket booths are all over the city and offer passes starting from one hour to four days. Venice has traditionally used paper tickets that must be time stamped in yellow boxes on the docks edge before boarding. While paper tickets are still found everywhere a new system using plastic cards which you wave in front of a card reader are beginning to take plant in the major stops on the Grand Canal.
Once you have your card or ticket then you are ready to explore. Choose your boat number, direction it is going and your stop then hop on. The best view is on the edge of the boat so make a bee line for the railing once you are on.
The “water bus” stops are identified by a floating box anchored to the sides of walkways with glass windows and large yellow band around the top with the stops name such as “REALTO.” Its funny, some clients in the past think the loading dock is the boat and shout out.. “how do these little boats fit everyone” or “where’s the engine” With a smile and a smirk I explain the boats run on ancient Venetian technology of under water pulleys , weights and secret passages and just as the “ohhhh’s” and “ahhhh’s” begin, I tell them the truth and smile. I like to guide with humor between fact and history.
Now that the technical is out of the way, let’s go have a cocktail. I take the group to a little café I know for the traditional Venetian drink a “spritz.” Made of a regional sparkling white wine called Procecco, Aperol which is made with chinchona, rhubarb, genziana and others herbs. It’s a sweet biter herb taste with a orange color; try it on ice it makes for a refreshing treat before dinner.
Dinner is in a small restaurant featuring the local cuisine in a quaint piazza. Fresh fish, pasta, meat, soups, bread and wine flow and the conversation with the group is stimulating. Dinner is a wonderful experience lasting several hours. We head back to the hotel because tomorrow is a busy day of exploring this great city.
I roll over and my eyes begin to focus as the alarm rings. Its wonderful to wake and the first image of the day is a lovely Murano glass chandelier hanging over the bed with streaks of light reflecting on it from the sun sneaking through cracks in the curtains.
Hop in the shower, brush the pearly whites and off to breakfast. Espresso, ham, cheese, yogurt, juice and a croissant taste perfect. Members of the group enjoy their own selections of yummy items and we meet in the lobby a few minutes later.
We leave the quietness of our hotel into the busy streets outside; walk over to the Vaporetto stop and wait for the #2 heading toward St. Marks Square where we will meet my guide. The ride is lovely, the breeze is cool and the ancient buildings pass by while gondolas rock back and forth in their nightly sleeping places. Shop merchants set up, shops open and Venice begins to come to life as it has done for hundreds of years; magic is in the air.
I hand choose all of my guides for their personalities, enthusiasm and knowledge. It has always been important to me that my clients get the most accurate historical information about what they are seeing but it must be presented in a fun, interactive way. History is great, but if it is delivered in a mundane slow pace; its going to put people to sleep.
Travel TIP: Hire a private guide. Certified local guides are the one and only way to see a city you have never been to before. They give you a perspective, insight and commentary that a guide book or audio guide could never touch. An experience with a private guide is moderately expensive but historically it is one of the best memories you and your family will bring back from the trip. Guides can also save you money by telling you where to shop for the best prices, how not to get ripped off by pickpockets and where to get the best food; so by adding value the actual expense is well worth it. Want to hire a private guide for a full or half day?: info@italy4real.com
“Rem, is this our stop?” “hey Rem, do we get off here” “Rem where is our stop” my clients rattle off their concerns of getting off the water bus at the right place from all directions. As a professional guide, it makes me laugh inside that I might just get off and leave them on the boat and go my merry way as they sail into the sunset of the unknown. With a reassuring voice I tell them its St. Marks and I will come to let everyone know when to get off and all they must do is relax and enjoy the scenery.
We set foot from the vessel onto the solid ground of St Marks Square. Hairs stand on end as I imagine the millions of people from Roman warriors to modern day movie stars that have taken the same strides on these walkways of history.
The first stop before embarking on a tour back in time is the bathroom! You can not truly appreciate what you are seeing if in the back of your mind you are looking for a place to pee.
Travel TIP: Public bathrooms are few and far between and they run from .60 to 1 Euro for entry. You can always go into a bar, buy a water or gum and use the bathroom. Restaurants are not keen on offering this so stick to bars and cafes. P.S. a bar is not a bar as it is in the good old USA, its more a coffee bar where you can get an espresso, sandwich or your favorite cocktail in a relaxed café environment.
Next is a stop at the tourist information office for a good map. One critical item of the traveler is a paper map. Sure GPS or PDA maps are great but good luck getting a satellite signal in the narrow alleyways of Venice and when your battery dies so does your sense of direction. Old school paper maps are dependable, available and ones produced locally will offer detail not found on maps purchased abroad.
Now that I have outfitted my group with the essentials we meet my guide. The guide will take them on a two + hour tour of the historical center of Venice; including St Marks Church, Bell Tower, Bridge of Sighs and the Rialto Bridge to name a few. The clients will listen to stories, learn about important historical spots that everyone else is just walking by not knowing what they are looking at. My clients will learn more in three hours than people to have been to Venice multiple times and only used a guidebook to get around.
As the group is enjoying their tour I go off into the winding streets to schedule several Gondola rides.
The famous Gondola ride of Venice is a trick or treat experience. If you don’t do it correctly you can get taken for a bunch of cash which will make your ride bittersweet. In ancient times Gondolas were used by everyday Venetians; today only tourists use the unique one oared boats. Each Gondola is the pride of its owner. Some are adorned with statues, gold trip and plush fabrics. Each boat is handmade and can cost upwards of 75,000 Euro each. The drivers of these slender vessels are called Gondoliers and belong to a union but do not follow any regulated pricing structure; this is where it can be costly for the inexperienced traveler.
Travel TIP: When you approach a Gondolier to request a ride you must be prepared to barter for both the cost and amount of time. Bartering is a natural part of Italian life and it is expected. If you don’t haggle over the price then you can expect 150 euro for less than an hour. If you are not the bartering type then try pre booking your gondola. You have the choice of a private one (cost more) or a group one (cost less) The group Gondola ride involves a boat that seats about 6 people and usually 5 or 6 boats will travel together with the center boat offering music and song from a local artist singing traditional Italian love songs. I think the later it the more memorable choice. You can book in advance by contacting info@italy4rel.com
Clients happy.. check, Gondola rides scheduled… check, tomorrows departure scheduled…check. Great, my job is done for the day and now it’s my time to relax.
I’m not sure why but Venice calls to me in a way no other city does; maybe it’s the maze of canals darting their way through ancient buildings, or the unique qualities Venice and its people bring to the table.
We awake to sunny sky’s, the smell of fresh bread and coffee float through the air of the breakfast room of our palace on Lake Maggiore. Windows one story high show us the sun and mist of the lake beyond the pampered lawns and glistening pool of the hotel. The group is full of energy and fill their bellies with meats, cheeses, yogurts, fresh baked sweets, cappuccino, espresso and tea. The big breakfast is a welcome start to the day ahead. We board our coach that has been freshly washed and spruced up by our driver each morning, settle in for the drive to the city of love; Verona.
Verona is the home of Romeo and Juliet’s balcony; a grand coliseum that now hosts world class theater and some of the best shops found between Milan and Venice. We stop here for a few hours and lunch on our way to Venice. Verona is to me only a stopover because its small and so close to Venice that it’s hard to justify an overnight there. We offload on to the busy streets of Verona and I guide the group to the main square. We stop for the bathroom; talk about the meeting point and time then we head down the marble laden shopping street toward the famous romantic balcony.
They say it’s a fable; some say its true, but no matter the reason behind the story; today we stand before a small stone balcony where the most powerful story of love is displayed for all to see. People from all over the world come to this spot; not to just see the balcony and touch the statue of Juliet in the courtyard but to profess their love on the walls, stones, windows and doors of the courtyard in pen, pencil, notepad or napkin. Thousands of love notes surround us; layer upon layer of ink tell the story of young, old and dying love of the thousands who have visited this spot. If you are able to look beyond the tourists snapping photos, vendors selling R&J t-shirts you may be able to feel and see the unique place that people have chosen to display their love of one another. In a world where we see so much violence, despair and war; I think it is refreshing to see a courtyard devoted to love; an oasis of positive energy.
Its free time for a few hours and the group shuffles off into the crowds to explore. Some go to lunch, some the outdoor market. Verona offers something for everyone even if for only a few fleeting moments.
After Verona we continue on to one of my favorite places on earth, Venice.
Created out of the desperate need to survive from the invasion of the Barbarians from the North; Venetians created one of the most amazing and unique cities in the world. As we arrive to the check point; the process all groups must complete on the edge of Italy’s major cites; I can smell the salt of the sea and the energy of the group begins to increase as each person is ready to see the city built on water. We cross the causeway with Venice in the foreground; you can see construction cranes on the horizon used to save the city from crumbling ancient foundations holding up massive amounts of weight. The bell tower of St. Marks Square darts above the rooftops. We pull in to Piazza Roma where we offload our luggage. The process that our groups luggage goes through is a complicated dance of land, boat and canal travel to reach our hotel. We double check the number of bags ands our belongings are loaded onto a boat; we begin to walk.
Our hotel is a lovely little family run property in Baroque style. Fabric walls, Murano glass chandeliers in wood beamed rooms. The hotel is only a three bridge walk to arrive which is a wonderful treat considering that Venice has over 400 of them.
We check in and have a few hours to relax before I show the clients how to get around the city on the sea. After a quick nap, a stroll or check of the e-mail, the clients meet me in the lobby. I guide them over to the Vaporetto, Venice’s water bus. The “VEP” system is the only way to get around Venice. Each boat is a lumbering people mover that covers every major area of the city in efficient, regular-scheduled glory. Imagine your local city bus and how many places it goes in your city and then replace the streets with water; and wa-la you have the Venice Vaporetto system. http://www.actv.it/english/home.php
Ticket booths are all over the city and offer passes starting from one hour to four days. Venice has traditionally used paper tickets that must be time stamped in yellow boxes on the docks edge before boarding. While paper tickets are still found everywhere a new system using plastic cards which you wave in front of a card reader are beginning to take plant in the major stops on the Grand Canal.
Once you have your card or ticket then you are ready to explore. Choose your boat number, direction it is going and your stop then hop on. The best view is on the edge of the boat so make a bee line for the railing once you are on.
The “water bus” stops are identified by a floating box anchored to the sides of walkways with glass windows and large yellow band around the top with the stops name such as “REALTO.” Its funny, some clients in the past think the loading dock is the boat and shout out.. “how do these little boats fit everyone” or “where’s the engine” With a smile and a smirk I explain the boats run on ancient Venetian technology of under water pulleys , weights and secret passages and just as the “ohhhh’s” and “ahhhh’s” begin, I tell them the truth and smile. I like to guide with humor between fact and history.
Now that the technical is out of the way, let’s go have a cocktail. I take the group to a little café I know for the traditional Venetian drink a “spritz.” Made of a regional sparkling white wine called Procecco, Aperol which is made with chinchona, rhubarb, genziana and others herbs. It’s a sweet biter herb taste with a orange color; try it on ice it makes for a refreshing treat before dinner.
Dinner is in a small restaurant featuring the local cuisine in a quaint piazza. Fresh fish, pasta, meat, soups, bread and wine flow and the conversation with the group is stimulating. Dinner is a wonderful experience lasting several hours. We head back to the hotel because tomorrow is a busy day of exploring this great city.
I roll over and my eyes begin to focus as the alarm rings. Its wonderful to wake and the first image of the day is a lovely Murano glass chandelier hanging over the bed with streaks of light reflecting on it from the sun sneaking through cracks in the curtains.
Hop in the shower, brush the pearly whites and off to breakfast. Espresso, ham, cheese, yogurt, juice and a croissant taste perfect. Members of the group enjoy their own selections of yummy items and we meet in the lobby a few minutes later.
We leave the quietness of our hotel into the busy streets outside; walk over to the Vaporetto stop and wait for the #2 heading toward St. Marks Square where we will meet my guide. The ride is lovely, the breeze is cool and the ancient buildings pass by while gondolas rock back and forth in their nightly sleeping places. Shop merchants set up, shops open and Venice begins to come to life as it has done for hundreds of years; magic is in the air.
I hand choose all of my guides for their personalities, enthusiasm and knowledge. It has always been important to me that my clients get the most accurate historical information about what they are seeing but it must be presented in a fun, interactive way. History is great, but if it is delivered in a mundane slow pace; its going to put people to sleep.
Travel TIP: Hire a private guide. Certified local guides are the one and only way to see a city you have never been to before. They give you a perspective, insight and commentary that a guide book or audio guide could never touch. An experience with a private guide is moderately expensive but historically it is one of the best memories you and your family will bring back from the trip. Guides can also save you money by telling you where to shop for the best prices, how not to get ripped off by pickpockets and where to get the best food; so by adding value the actual expense is well worth it. Want to hire a private guide for a full or half day?: info@italy4real.com
“Rem, is this our stop?” “hey Rem, do we get off here” “Rem where is our stop” my clients rattle off their concerns of getting off the water bus at the right place from all directions. As a professional guide, it makes me laugh inside that I might just get off and leave them on the boat and go my merry way as they sail into the sunset of the unknown. With a reassuring voice I tell them its St. Marks and I will come to let everyone know when to get off and all they must do is relax and enjoy the scenery.
We set foot from the vessel onto the solid ground of St Marks Square. Hairs stand on end as I imagine the millions of people from Roman warriors to modern day movie stars that have taken the same strides on these walkways of history.
The first stop before embarking on a tour back in time is the bathroom! You can not truly appreciate what you are seeing if in the back of your mind you are looking for a place to pee.
Travel TIP: Public bathrooms are few and far between and they run from .60 to 1 Euro for entry. You can always go into a bar, buy a water or gum and use the bathroom. Restaurants are not keen on offering this so stick to bars and cafes. P.S. a bar is not a bar as it is in the good old USA, its more a coffee bar where you can get an espresso, sandwich or your favorite cocktail in a relaxed café environment.
Next is a stop at the tourist information office for a good map. One critical item of the traveler is a paper map. Sure GPS or PDA maps are great but good luck getting a satellite signal in the narrow alleyways of Venice and when your battery dies so does your sense of direction. Old school paper maps are dependable, available and ones produced locally will offer detail not found on maps purchased abroad.
Now that I have outfitted my group with the essentials we meet my guide. The guide will take them on a two + hour tour of the historical center of Venice; including St Marks Church, Bell Tower, Bridge of Sighs and the Rialto Bridge to name a few. The clients will listen to stories, learn about important historical spots that everyone else is just walking by not knowing what they are looking at. My clients will learn more in three hours than people to have been to Venice multiple times and only used a guidebook to get around.
As the group is enjoying their tour I go off into the winding streets to schedule several Gondola rides.
The famous Gondola ride of Venice is a trick or treat experience. If you don’t do it correctly you can get taken for a bunch of cash which will make your ride bittersweet. In ancient times Gondolas were used by everyday Venetians; today only tourists use the unique one oared boats. Each Gondola is the pride of its owner. Some are adorned with statues, gold trip and plush fabrics. Each boat is handmade and can cost upwards of 75,000 Euro each. The drivers of these slender vessels are called Gondoliers and belong to a union but do not follow any regulated pricing structure; this is where it can be costly for the inexperienced traveler.
Travel TIP: When you approach a Gondolier to request a ride you must be prepared to barter for both the cost and amount of time. Bartering is a natural part of Italian life and it is expected. If you don’t haggle over the price then you can expect 150 euro for less than an hour. If you are not the bartering type then try pre booking your gondola. You have the choice of a private one (cost more) or a group one (cost less) The group Gondola ride involves a boat that seats about 6 people and usually 5 or 6 boats will travel together with the center boat offering music and song from a local artist singing traditional Italian love songs. I think the later it the more memorable choice. You can book in advance by contacting info@italy4rel.com
Clients happy.. check, Gondola rides scheduled… check, tomorrows departure scheduled…check. Great, my job is done for the day and now it’s my time to relax.
I’m not sure why but Venice calls to me in a way no other city does; maybe it’s the maze of canals darting their way through ancient buildings, or the unique qualities Venice and its people bring to the table.
Premo Italiano Day 1 & 2 – Lake Maggiore
http://www.italy4real.com/escorted_13day.php
This is where I do what I do as a professional tour guide. My clients begin to arrive from all over the United States to the Milan MXP airport. Lets see.. we have 4 from Tennessee.. check… three from California.. one from Wisconsin and Washington State. I wont accept more than 16 passengers; I value quality and the ability to feel relaxed so small groups are just perfect. This trip will have 12 passengers. The first clients land at 6:35 am; its raining. When people get off the plane in Italy they tend to be a little tired but excited about the trip ahead; when its raining, the energy is just not there and questions about the weather start after “Hello and welcome to Italy” The good thing is that Italy does not stay wet for long in May. Showers come and go but for the most part its sunny, clear and just lovely. I believe our May and September tours are the best ones.
Amazing, no lost clients and only one arrived without their luggage.
Travel TIP: Buy travel insurance! I always tell my clients to get travel insurance for each and every trip they take; not for being sick or robbed; that rarely happens on any trip; but what does happen on almost every trip is delay. Delay of you or your bags is a definite fact and everyone will experience lost bags or missed flights if they travel enough. Travel insurance will give you a daily spending limit to get what you need to be more comfortable and if by chance your luggage never shows up you get quite a bit of cash for the airlines loosing it. The small amount travel insurance will set you back does not even compare to the benefits you reap if you miss your first nights hotel or your bags do.
This year we have a brand new Mercedes coach. I only use small coaches under 20 passengers since I only take a maximum of 16 passengers at a time. This allows us to go almost anywhere a car can go. Those other tours that use 30-50 seat coaches are stuck at huge parking lots and guests must walk because the bus is so big it cant go any further.
The new coach is lovely.. leather seats, killer sound system, DVD, the works. It even has that “new coach” smell.. ahhhh.
The first set of clients is aboard and we head off into the misty scene that is today’s Italy. Our base location is in the town of Baveno on Lake Maggiore. Lake Maggiore is located about 45 minutes from the Milan airport and is Lake Como’s sister lake. I have been brining people here for years and not Como because Como has accepted the big commercial push and has become quite crowded and touristy. My concept of a good trip begins with a slow entry into the new culture. You must pick an area that is quite, lovely and genuine and Lake Maggiore fits the bill.
Aronne; my driver and I spend the majority of the day going back and forth to the airport to pick up my clients. The last one comes in around 3pm. It’s a relief that everyone is in safe and sound.. now the fun begins.
Strolling over the stone patchwork walks of Corco Italia; the main road that connects the towns of Baveno and Stresa; you can gaze and see the majesty of the massive lake. Towering Swiss Alps seem to encircle you in their beauty and silhouetted shapes. The islands of Isola Bella, Pescatori and Madre seem like green oases in the flat waters of Maggiore. Stroll by some of the grandest European hotels each adorned with flowered balconies, ornate metal work and pampered lawns.
Lake Maggore has refused the big industry that nearby Como has accepted with open arms. Como with its city like pace, fancy shops and crowded streets seems a world away from the calm comforting and gentle vibe of towns like Stresa and Baveno. Maggiore feels as it were frozen in time, stopped some how in its most glorious moment.
Baveno with its short lakeside walkways, hip local cafes and family run pizzerias. On the shore are grand hotels boasting marble adorned bathrooms, dual balconies and gold trimmed doors; it’s not gaudy, it’s elegant in the most European way. During warm summer nights outdoor markets take root in the town square. They don’t offer the usual nick nacks but well thought out choices of fine and unique items. Over there, a man from Africa sells hand carved figurines, imported incense, hand made wooden combs and brushes. Stroll by a table top full of antique cameras, fine pens, pencils and colorful hand made candles... each vendor displaying their pride with every glance of there goods. The smell of sandalwood tickles your nose.
At about 5 pm we have our orientation, cocktails and meet and greet. I explain to the clients over wine or their favorite beverage the wonders of the days to come as well as the practical information such as where the closest ATM is and the best place to sample their first gelato of the trip.
After we unwind from the long day of travel most have endured to arrive, I explain they have to jobs to complete while they are with me. 1. To truly enjoy themselves and 2. to relax. I think as Americans we tend to be in a multi-task world that slowly shrinks our ability to slow down, relax and enjoy the simple things in life. My tour allows each guest to do this in style.
After orientation we head over to the neighboring town of Stresa for a private wine and olive oil tasting with a wonderful close friend named Rosaria Bolla. This woman in her 70’s (though she looks 20 years younger) knows her stuff. In her shop Enoteca La Cambusa. Via Cavour, 27 there seems to be a bottle from every wine producer in the world much less Italy; and Rosaria knows the history, technique and producers each bottle was born from. She is funny, loving and has a true passion about what she does. With open arms she welcomes my clients and the wine and spirits begin to flow. We try dry, sweet, strong, light and aromatic wines of Italy each with an explanation of its history and why Rosaria chose it for us.
We also sample truffle spread, a lovely strong taste with smooth finish on bread.. just wonderful. We sample olive and sun dried tomato dip that is bottled in Italy and would make even the most authentic Italian chef beg for the recipe. As the group laughs, listens to stories I can see the stresses of everyday life slowly slide away from their faces replaced by the content smile that is a wonderful and welcome addition to the first day on tour. Rosaria gives a big smile as she tell me and the group she finely got her famous recipe written down for those who come to visit her at the shop. Everyone comes closer in anticipation of the detailed instructions to create an Italian masterpiece back home.
Risotto for 3 people
1 little onion
Olive oil
250 -300 grams of rice.
Saffron, mushrooms or vegetables of your choice
1 cube of beef stock
½ glass of white wine (Italian of course)
A boiling kettle of water
Grated parmesan cheese
Butter or heavy cream
“Put the oil in a small casserole with the onion finely diced. Switch on the fire (gentle) When golden add the rice and stir for 1 minute add the white wine, keep stirring, when the wine has dried out put the beef cube and add half kettle of boiling water stir and let cook. Check every now and again if needed add more water, taste for salt you might need half beef stock or a pinch of salt. After 15 minutes taste (al dente) If it is to sticky add some cream or milk take it away from the fire, you can now serve it”
I hope my clients and readers will try this wonderful dish from a wonderful person. After the welcome, the clients are happy and seem to not have a care in the world. We go for a walk in the cool evening air and I show them the town square of Stresa where children play, travelers relax and locals do their local thing. Next is diner with “the brothers.”
I became friends with Antonio and Franco; two brothers who own La Trappola a local restaurant where they welcome each guest with a smile and a “how are you” in the thickest Italian accent. The freshest pasta, pizza and local dishes are prepared not with tourism efficiency but with gentle care of which your grandmother would approve. They come to visit each table to take a moment in time to meet you and truly wonder who and where you are from. You get a true sense of family and receive a welcome not found in other busy areas of Italy.
The group orders fresh pizza, pasta with sauces ranging from butter and clams to meat to gorgonzola; each prepared to order and delivered piping hot with a smile. Italian wine, beer and conversation flow.
As my clients bellies begin to fill their eyes begin to close as jet lag begins to win over one by one. Happy and full they retire to the hotel.
My mother and I have personally chosen the hotels used on this tour and have become great friends with the staff and owners of each. Our hotel in Baveno is a grand European hotel adorned with Baroque style and European elegance; its actually quite amazing. Each inch is a plethora of details. Stained glass, marble, fine woods, fabrics and crystal surround each guest in lush grandeur. A perfect home for the end of a perfect day.
We meet in the lobby the next morning about 9am for the days adventure to the island of Isola Bella. We board the coach for the 5 minute ride to Stresa and we board the ferry. The weather is perfect, not too hot, just right. The waters of the lake are flat and calm as we board the ferry. The ferryboat glides along the lake side heading toward the largest of the Boromeo islands. The ferry passes lake side villas, parks and majestic peaks of the surrounding mountains covered in a plush carpet of green.
Imagine a mansion the length of a football field and 4 stories high, then place gardens of the most elegant, European grandeur of the same size out back and you have Isola Bella. Its jaw-dropping baroque style at its best. I get tickets for each of my gests and begin showing them around. From the grand ballroom with perfect acoustics, master stone work “sleeping Venus” to the pebble covered lower floors used as ancient air conditioning; the villa impresses and astounds each member of the group.
The massive gardens with white peacocks spreading their plumage, rare plants, extraordinary flowers, lemon trees and the plants called Elephant Ears with leaves so large you could catch shade under them all live in this wonderland of pampered foliage.
Free time starts at the end of the gardens and members of the group dart off in different directions like children let loose in a candy store. Some go back to Stresa to see Rosaria for the special bottle of wine and a welcome conversation with a local, others go over to Isola Madre to see the largest collection of ancient puppets, stages and costumes. Madre was the entertainment island of the day; and boasts quite the unique collection of hand made puppets (see photos) Others go back to the hotel to enjoy the olympic size pool, fitness center or read a book in one of the grand European parlors of the hotel.
The clients have this evening free to explore and find their own special eatery and to soak up this unique lakeside town before we continue on our journey the next morning. Aronne and I go back to the brothers for laughs and a great steak before retiring for the evening. Day one and two of the tour could not have been better or more relaxed.
This is where I do what I do as a professional tour guide. My clients begin to arrive from all over the United States to the Milan MXP airport. Lets see.. we have 4 from Tennessee.. check… three from California.. one from Wisconsin and Washington State. I wont accept more than 16 passengers; I value quality and the ability to feel relaxed so small groups are just perfect. This trip will have 12 passengers. The first clients land at 6:35 am; its raining. When people get off the plane in Italy they tend to be a little tired but excited about the trip ahead; when its raining, the energy is just not there and questions about the weather start after “Hello and welcome to Italy” The good thing is that Italy does not stay wet for long in May. Showers come and go but for the most part its sunny, clear and just lovely. I believe our May and September tours are the best ones.
Amazing, no lost clients and only one arrived without their luggage.
Travel TIP: Buy travel insurance! I always tell my clients to get travel insurance for each and every trip they take; not for being sick or robbed; that rarely happens on any trip; but what does happen on almost every trip is delay. Delay of you or your bags is a definite fact and everyone will experience lost bags or missed flights if they travel enough. Travel insurance will give you a daily spending limit to get what you need to be more comfortable and if by chance your luggage never shows up you get quite a bit of cash for the airlines loosing it. The small amount travel insurance will set you back does not even compare to the benefits you reap if you miss your first nights hotel or your bags do.
This year we have a brand new Mercedes coach. I only use small coaches under 20 passengers since I only take a maximum of 16 passengers at a time. This allows us to go almost anywhere a car can go. Those other tours that use 30-50 seat coaches are stuck at huge parking lots and guests must walk because the bus is so big it cant go any further.
The new coach is lovely.. leather seats, killer sound system, DVD, the works. It even has that “new coach” smell.. ahhhh.
The first set of clients is aboard and we head off into the misty scene that is today’s Italy. Our base location is in the town of Baveno on Lake Maggiore. Lake Maggiore is located about 45 minutes from the Milan airport and is Lake Como’s sister lake. I have been brining people here for years and not Como because Como has accepted the big commercial push and has become quite crowded and touristy. My concept of a good trip begins with a slow entry into the new culture. You must pick an area that is quite, lovely and genuine and Lake Maggiore fits the bill.
Aronne; my driver and I spend the majority of the day going back and forth to the airport to pick up my clients. The last one comes in around 3pm. It’s a relief that everyone is in safe and sound.. now the fun begins.
Strolling over the stone patchwork walks of Corco Italia; the main road that connects the towns of Baveno and Stresa; you can gaze and see the majesty of the massive lake. Towering Swiss Alps seem to encircle you in their beauty and silhouetted shapes. The islands of Isola Bella, Pescatori and Madre seem like green oases in the flat waters of Maggiore. Stroll by some of the grandest European hotels each adorned with flowered balconies, ornate metal work and pampered lawns.
Lake Maggore has refused the big industry that nearby Como has accepted with open arms. Como with its city like pace, fancy shops and crowded streets seems a world away from the calm comforting and gentle vibe of towns like Stresa and Baveno. Maggiore feels as it were frozen in time, stopped some how in its most glorious moment.
Baveno with its short lakeside walkways, hip local cafes and family run pizzerias. On the shore are grand hotels boasting marble adorned bathrooms, dual balconies and gold trimmed doors; it’s not gaudy, it’s elegant in the most European way. During warm summer nights outdoor markets take root in the town square. They don’t offer the usual nick nacks but well thought out choices of fine and unique items. Over there, a man from Africa sells hand carved figurines, imported incense, hand made wooden combs and brushes. Stroll by a table top full of antique cameras, fine pens, pencils and colorful hand made candles... each vendor displaying their pride with every glance of there goods. The smell of sandalwood tickles your nose.
At about 5 pm we have our orientation, cocktails and meet and greet. I explain to the clients over wine or their favorite beverage the wonders of the days to come as well as the practical information such as where the closest ATM is and the best place to sample their first gelato of the trip.
After we unwind from the long day of travel most have endured to arrive, I explain they have to jobs to complete while they are with me. 1. To truly enjoy themselves and 2. to relax. I think as Americans we tend to be in a multi-task world that slowly shrinks our ability to slow down, relax and enjoy the simple things in life. My tour allows each guest to do this in style.
After orientation we head over to the neighboring town of Stresa for a private wine and olive oil tasting with a wonderful close friend named Rosaria Bolla. This woman in her 70’s (though she looks 20 years younger) knows her stuff. In her shop Enoteca La Cambusa. Via Cavour, 27 there seems to be a bottle from every wine producer in the world much less Italy; and Rosaria knows the history, technique and producers each bottle was born from. She is funny, loving and has a true passion about what she does. With open arms she welcomes my clients and the wine and spirits begin to flow. We try dry, sweet, strong, light and aromatic wines of Italy each with an explanation of its history and why Rosaria chose it for us.
We also sample truffle spread, a lovely strong taste with smooth finish on bread.. just wonderful. We sample olive and sun dried tomato dip that is bottled in Italy and would make even the most authentic Italian chef beg for the recipe. As the group laughs, listens to stories I can see the stresses of everyday life slowly slide away from their faces replaced by the content smile that is a wonderful and welcome addition to the first day on tour. Rosaria gives a big smile as she tell me and the group she finely got her famous recipe written down for those who come to visit her at the shop. Everyone comes closer in anticipation of the detailed instructions to create an Italian masterpiece back home.
Risotto for 3 people
1 little onion
Olive oil
250 -300 grams of rice.
Saffron, mushrooms or vegetables of your choice
1 cube of beef stock
½ glass of white wine (Italian of course)
A boiling kettle of water
Grated parmesan cheese
Butter or heavy cream
“Put the oil in a small casserole with the onion finely diced. Switch on the fire (gentle) When golden add the rice and stir for 1 minute add the white wine, keep stirring, when the wine has dried out put the beef cube and add half kettle of boiling water stir and let cook. Check every now and again if needed add more water, taste for salt you might need half beef stock or a pinch of salt. After 15 minutes taste (al dente) If it is to sticky add some cream or milk take it away from the fire, you can now serve it”
I hope my clients and readers will try this wonderful dish from a wonderful person. After the welcome, the clients are happy and seem to not have a care in the world. We go for a walk in the cool evening air and I show them the town square of Stresa where children play, travelers relax and locals do their local thing. Next is diner with “the brothers.”
I became friends with Antonio and Franco; two brothers who own La Trappola a local restaurant where they welcome each guest with a smile and a “how are you” in the thickest Italian accent. The freshest pasta, pizza and local dishes are prepared not with tourism efficiency but with gentle care of which your grandmother would approve. They come to visit each table to take a moment in time to meet you and truly wonder who and where you are from. You get a true sense of family and receive a welcome not found in other busy areas of Italy.
The group orders fresh pizza, pasta with sauces ranging from butter and clams to meat to gorgonzola; each prepared to order and delivered piping hot with a smile. Italian wine, beer and conversation flow.
As my clients bellies begin to fill their eyes begin to close as jet lag begins to win over one by one. Happy and full they retire to the hotel.
My mother and I have personally chosen the hotels used on this tour and have become great friends with the staff and owners of each. Our hotel in Baveno is a grand European hotel adorned with Baroque style and European elegance; its actually quite amazing. Each inch is a plethora of details. Stained glass, marble, fine woods, fabrics and crystal surround each guest in lush grandeur. A perfect home for the end of a perfect day.
We meet in the lobby the next morning about 9am for the days adventure to the island of Isola Bella. We board the coach for the 5 minute ride to Stresa and we board the ferry. The weather is perfect, not too hot, just right. The waters of the lake are flat and calm as we board the ferry. The ferryboat glides along the lake side heading toward the largest of the Boromeo islands. The ferry passes lake side villas, parks and majestic peaks of the surrounding mountains covered in a plush carpet of green.
Imagine a mansion the length of a football field and 4 stories high, then place gardens of the most elegant, European grandeur of the same size out back and you have Isola Bella. Its jaw-dropping baroque style at its best. I get tickets for each of my gests and begin showing them around. From the grand ballroom with perfect acoustics, master stone work “sleeping Venus” to the pebble covered lower floors used as ancient air conditioning; the villa impresses and astounds each member of the group.
The massive gardens with white peacocks spreading their plumage, rare plants, extraordinary flowers, lemon trees and the plants called Elephant Ears with leaves so large you could catch shade under them all live in this wonderland of pampered foliage.Free time starts at the end of the gardens and members of the group dart off in different directions like children let loose in a candy store. Some go back to Stresa to see Rosaria for the special bottle of wine and a welcome conversation with a local, others go over to Isola Madre to see the largest collection of ancient puppets, stages and costumes. Madre was the entertainment island of the day; and boasts quite the unique collection of hand made puppets (see photos) Others go back to the hotel to enjoy the olympic size pool, fitness center or read a book in one of the grand European parlors of the hotel.
The clients have this evening free to explore and find their own special eatery and to soak up this unique lakeside town before we continue on our journey the next morning. Aronne and I go back to the brothers for laughs and a great steak before retiring for the evening. Day one and two of the tour could not have been better or more relaxed.
AMS – MXP
My taxi arrived to the hotel sharp at 8am and im off to the airport. It’s a groggy 30 min ride. As I wiz in and out of A’dams back streets toward the highway I jump in and out of quick glimpses of my last two days and the driver glances in the rearview mirror as I giggle out loud during a funny thought. I arrive and are in line to check into my hopper flight. Savvy travelers use low cost hopper flights to get around, my flight is only 1 hour and cost about €50 for a one way ticket from Amsterdam to Milan.
I arrive to MXP before noon, grab my bags and wait for the hotel shuttle bus. Tonight is for reviewing my clients arrival schedules, calling my coach driver and preparing for going to work as a professional tour guide. I sleep, eat, laptop, eat, sleep. My watch alarms at 6 and by 6:20 I am shaking hands with my trusted driver Aronne as he stands in the rain waiting to collect me and my bags.
I arrive to MXP before noon, grab my bags and wait for the hotel shuttle bus. Tonight is for reviewing my clients arrival schedules, calling my coach driver and preparing for going to work as a professional tour guide. I sleep, eat, laptop, eat, sleep. My watch alarms at 6 and by 6:20 I am shaking hands with my trusted driver Aronne as he stands in the rain waiting to collect me and my bags.
A day in the life of A'dam
A’dam is a wonderful town offering something for everyone. What really attracts me to this town is its good, simple, quaint feeling when you are here. Water, canals, bike riders, art, culture, music, great food and an open attitude are what make Amsterdam almost the perfect town.
After a simple breakfast at the hotel of orange juice, pound cake, poached eggs and coffee (Koffee, in Dutch) my batteries were charged and I was ready to get to work. One of the things I do as part of my job is inspect hotels, restaurants and services that I may recommend to the clients of travel 4 real (http://www.travel4real.com/) Yes I know, it’s a great job.. and everyone on the planet I meet makes sure to tell me.
So there was a one star hotel I wanted to see and it was on the way to one of my favorite pastimes; photography. As you may see from this blog, I am a shutterbug. My gear is a Nikon D200 pro digital camera and a small Kodak point and shoot; together they give me the most shooting flexibility. The Nikon is BIG and cumbersome to lug around and is a theft target too. The point and shoot is great for taking quick “ohh got to have that shot” photos and for inspecting properties and restaurants.
So I hop on my trusty bike and head down the narrow canal streets to take on the day.
Travel TIP: When renting a bike in Amsterdam you have two choices; back petal brake or hand brake. I think back petal I experienced once when I was 5 but mostly I believe Americans have used the hand brake. Since you will be biking around a city you have no idea how to navigate make sure your bicycling experience is as pleasurable and safe as possible and get the break the way you know it.. The other bike decision you will need to make is to get a “HEY, EVERYBODY, IM A TOURIST” colored bike or an incognito one. There are two bike companies that tend to rent bright red or bright yellow bikes to tourists. Not that you will have any problems but its like the cheesy guy with the bright yellow sports car.. why yell when you can blend in. Go for one of the incognito black bikes that you can rent at the smaller bike shops.. they are a much better choice for looking like a traveler and not a tourist.
So if you like photography like I do, taking it and viewing others, then there are two fantastic photography museums you should check out and one traveling show. Amsterdam is one of the few cities I have been to that give weight and creditability to the art of photography. Many believe due to the fact you can buy a digital camera at the supermarket means anyone can be a photographer and many galleries do not feature works by photographers; not in A’dam.
The Huis Marseille Museum for Photography is located on Keizergracht 401. http://www.huismarseille.nl/ and is open Tue-Sun 11-6. This museum is located in an old but wonderfully renovated canal house. It features works from famous and infamous artists in a wide range of disciplines. It’s a small museum so you should be able to do it justice in under an hour.
Foam – Fotografiemuseum Amsterdam on Keizersgracht 609. http://www.foam.nl/ open daily from 10-6. This is a progressive gallery that has a good amount of space and a cool café. Foam features popular works and works from new artists in the following disciplines: fine art, applied, documentary, historical and contemporary. I would allot an hour for Foam.
.jpg)
World Press Photo http://www.worldpressphoto.org/ is one of the events I look forward to each year. This is a global competition during April and May each year is from press photographers all over the planet and is an amazing look into the current events of the world. Because the artists are working for the press the images are mostly of current events which means they can be a little heavy like the war in Afghanistan, social issues and the like, but it is the quintessential example of modern historical and documentary photography. It is held in a great old church called Oude Kerk http://www.oudekerk.nl/ which is adorned with amazing wood work, ancient organ (1724) (that they still play) and wonderful stained glass. It is the oldest church in A’dam dating back to 1250. In the floor there are 2500 people entombed including Saskia, Rembrandt’s first wife. It also has the largest and oldest timber roof in Europe. Because of the amazing church surrounding the exhibit, I would give yourself about 1.5 hours, unless you really get into the photos and then it becomes a time sucker.
Travel TIP: To find things to do during your stay in A’dam make sure to pick up one of the local papers in English which list what is going on during the week you are there. Locals love Amsterdam Weekly found all over town for free. http://www.amsterdamweekly.nl/
So, I’m inspired, filled with art and its not even noon. Time to do some inspections… or work as its called in the real world.
There are two areas I really like to focus on in A’dam.. the Jordan and Museum districts. The Jordan is just magical. Filled with crooked canal houses, small cafes, bookstores and art. The area feels like a upper scale artiest neighborhood. The corners and streets of the Jordan are so picturesque, just lovely. This is why I like to search for hotels in this area. The museum district is a little farther away from the “canal belt” but offers a quiet area with galleries, boutique hotels and cool apartments for rent.. both are just wonderful.
One thing to know about hotels in Amsterdam is that they come in three sizes. Commercial or chain hotels in large buildings in the city center, canal houses that have been turned into hotels or hotels that have renovated one or two adjoining canal houses for more space. The latter two are my recommended choices. Sure you can get a chain hotel and maybe score some frequent fl yer points, but is that Amsterdam.. no. Amsterdam is the home of the famous canal house… a narrow tall, thin, skinny, not wide building. Depending on the property they will have stairs so steep that it will give you vertigo (check out the photo).jpg)
The only time I find the stairs to be an issue is when you arrive with your luggage. Imagine Mount Everest from the base camp. Someone gives you a loaded Samsonite and says take it to the summit! Now if you are savvy like me, you will look for small boutique hotels that have taken two; sometimes three canal houses and gutted them to make one large one. These are great because you get an elevator!! Larger rooms and still have the cool neighborhood outside. These types of hotels tend to be 3 star or higher which equals more expensive. One and two star hotels can be quite wonderful, expect no elevator and most one and two star properties only have a few rooms with bathroom. These hotels take a little more research and first hand inspection to find a good one.. many can be quite run down; but when you find a good one.. ahhhh what a find. A room without a bathroom has always been a “no no” for me except for Amsterdam. It seems the hotels that offer rooms without bath sometimes do it right. “Right” means only one bathroom and shower per two rooms on a floor and a sink in your room so you can brush your teeth or freshen up without going into the hall. If its done right you will only be sharing the facilities with one other room which equals cleaner. The hotels that I have stayed at in A’dam that do this it was almost not noticeable that I did not have my own bathroom; it was just one door away, always clean and I saved quite a bit of change. As you read this you are probably wondering “hey what are the names of these great hotels” well I am a businessman, so if you want to book one of the great places I find then call my office; I got a baby to feed! http://www.travel4real.com/ 1-800-554-5170 or 001-425-355-3711.
So I spend much of the afternoon on my bike checking out hotels… I'm starting to get tired of peddling and need a cool drink with a good view. If you are out in the Waterlooplein area head for one of the best outdoor decks around at Café Dantzig. I had a seat in the sun and watched the world go by for an hour or so. A plate of Dutch cheese €3.25 and an iced tea €2.25 were all I needed. The Dutch cheese is brought to you in one inch squares with strong Dutch mustard and they bring you allot. The first bite reveals a hard, crumbly texture without much flavor, then it starts to melt.. ahhhhh the flavor explodes and you mouth is coated in a cheesy warm goodness.. yum. The Dantzig café also has the best iced tea I have ever had in A’dam; so good I had two! I could be there all day, but I’m only in town for a few days so I motivate to get back out.
.jpg)
Lets go see my friend John over at Grey Area. http://www.greyarea.nl/ Oude Leliestraat 2 . I like Grey Area. Its located in the cool Jordan neighborhood and is about the size of a walk in closet. John is from Rhode Island and for some reason the Grey Area attracts “less touristy” Americans and hip Europeans. It also attracts the famous such as Willie Nelson, Woody Harrelson and Lou Reed. I go for the conversation and there are always lots of laughs. If you are into checking out the coffeeshops of Amsterdam this one is a must! When you go; ask John why he pays €20 Euro for all of the pizza’s he orders no matter the size (inside joke)
With a smile on my face I head back out into the sunsets of A’dam. The sun in Europe has a yellow glow that makes for great photography so get out there and take advantage of the evenings. Before the shops closed I wanted to get a cool “something” to bring back home.. no, no.. not another rasta man ashtray or snow ball canal scene; I wanted something unique. I tapped into a local Dutch artist named Mark Raven. Mark started out as a street artist and now has worked his way up over 20 years to have his own gallery just behind Dam Square. As an art lover, and someone who likes t-shirts (the classy ones not the cheesy ones) the combination is a good one. Mark takes his scenes of Amsterdam’s canals and everyday life and puts his artist thing on them and sells prints and t-shirts with his work. You cant buy them online or any other place on the planet except at The Mark Raven Shop Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal 174 next to Magna Plaza Shopping Center. Daily 11-6. http://www.markraven.nl/
Its about 5:30 now and I must return my bike by 6, this is the saddest part of the day.. its like giving up your mobility. My bike shop is near Dam Square in the center so I start the purposely slow ride back.. I check in my wheels and start walking back toward my hotel. I hate walking!!! Especially if it is after biking for two days. It feels like someone took my jet pack off and replaced it with a rock; it slows me down. You can’t see 1/10 of what you can see on a bike on foot, and it feels like I'm making no ground.
Need to find some dinner. Since I don’t have any wheels and I don’t want to taxi everywhere (but there’s the tram, says people who have been to A’dam) yes, but its not fun, its just transportation, biking is fun.. I want to bike..
Amsterdam is a melting pot of smells and flavors, you can find almost any cuisine here. For a good American burger head over to the Hard Rock Café, it may be a tourist spot but it actually has the best burger in town. Max Euweplein 57-61 www.hardrock.com/amsterdam
One thing you will see a ton of are Argentinean steak houses, Indian food and fast food. The steak houses an Indian are good bets almost anyone you go to. For fast food check out Wok to Walk. Choose your base, noodles or rice, add your veggies or meat and then the sauce. Its all whipped up right in front of you in all its healthy glory. They are all over town; I go to the one at Leidsestraat 96 open 12-12, no credit cards.
I decided to keep in simple and around my hotel since my ride to the airport was at 7 the next morning. I'm one of those types of travelers that makes a complete mess of their hotel rooms and then packs it all up just before bed the night before my flight. I decided on Café-Restaurant De Oude Wester. Rozengracht 2. This is a neighborhood spot with simple but homey interior. The menu is very Dutch, lots of pancakes and stews. I went for a ½ pint of Amstel beer €1.90, bitterballen which is soft meatballs coated in crunchy crust and fried €3.50 and for the main course Goelach which is like Russian stew (meat, tomato base, rice) €15.50. Diner was good, needed a little more flavor, but bland is typical here. The atmosphere was great, watching locals bike past, people walking their dogs and boaters with wine and cheese cruising the canal in front of the restaurant.
With a full day behind me I head back to my hotel, pack, write and sleep.
After a simple breakfast at the hotel of orange juice, pound cake, poached eggs and coffee (Koffee, in Dutch) my batteries were charged and I was ready to get to work. One of the things I do as part of my job is inspect hotels, restaurants and services that I may recommend to the clients of travel 4 real (http://www.travel4real.com/) Yes I know, it’s a great job.. and everyone on the planet I meet makes sure to tell me.
So there was a one star hotel I wanted to see and it was on the way to one of my favorite pastimes; photography. As you may see from this blog, I am a shutterbug. My gear is a Nikon D200 pro digital camera and a small Kodak point and shoot; together they give me the most shooting flexibility. The Nikon is BIG and cumbersome to lug around and is a theft target too. The point and shoot is great for taking quick “ohh got to have that shot” photos and for inspecting properties and restaurants.
So I hop on my trusty bike and head down the narrow canal streets to take on the day.
Travel TIP: When renting a bike in Amsterdam you have two choices; back petal brake or hand brake. I think back petal I experienced once when I was 5 but mostly I believe Americans have used the hand brake. Since you will be biking around a city you have no idea how to navigate make sure your bicycling experience is as pleasurable and safe as possible and get the break the way you know it.. The other bike decision you will need to make is to get a “HEY, EVERYBODY, IM A TOURIST” colored bike or an incognito one. There are two bike companies that tend to rent bright red or bright yellow bikes to tourists. Not that you will have any problems but its like the cheesy guy with the bright yellow sports car.. why yell when you can blend in. Go for one of the incognito black bikes that you can rent at the smaller bike shops.. they are a much better choice for looking like a traveler and not a tourist.
So if you like photography like I do, taking it and viewing others, then there are two fantastic photography museums you should check out and one traveling show. Amsterdam is one of the few cities I have been to that give weight and creditability to the art of photography. Many believe due to the fact you can buy a digital camera at the supermarket means anyone can be a photographer and many galleries do not feature works by photographers; not in A’dam.
The Huis Marseille Museum for Photography is located on Keizergracht 401. http://www.huismarseille.nl/ and is open Tue-Sun 11-6. This museum is located in an old but wonderfully renovated canal house. It features works from famous and infamous artists in a wide range of disciplines. It’s a small museum so you should be able to do it justice in under an hour.
Foam – Fotografiemuseum Amsterdam on Keizersgracht 609. http://www.foam.nl/ open daily from 10-6. This is a progressive gallery that has a good amount of space and a cool café. Foam features popular works and works from new artists in the following disciplines: fine art, applied, documentary, historical and contemporary. I would allot an hour for Foam.
.jpg)
World Press Photo http://www.worldpressphoto.org/ is one of the events I look forward to each year. This is a global competition during April and May each year is from press photographers all over the planet and is an amazing look into the current events of the world. Because the artists are working for the press the images are mostly of current events which means they can be a little heavy like the war in Afghanistan, social issues and the like, but it is the quintessential example of modern historical and documentary photography. It is held in a great old church called Oude Kerk http://www.oudekerk.nl/ which is adorned with amazing wood work, ancient organ (1724) (that they still play) and wonderful stained glass. It is the oldest church in A’dam dating back to 1250. In the floor there are 2500 people entombed including Saskia, Rembrandt’s first wife. It also has the largest and oldest timber roof in Europe. Because of the amazing church surrounding the exhibit, I would give yourself about 1.5 hours, unless you really get into the photos and then it becomes a time sucker.Travel TIP: To find things to do during your stay in A’dam make sure to pick up one of the local papers in English which list what is going on during the week you are there. Locals love Amsterdam Weekly found all over town for free. http://www.amsterdamweekly.nl/
So, I’m inspired, filled with art and its not even noon. Time to do some inspections… or work as its called in the real world.
There are two areas I really like to focus on in A’dam.. the Jordan and Museum districts. The Jordan is just magical. Filled with crooked canal houses, small cafes, bookstores and art. The area feels like a upper scale artiest neighborhood. The corners and streets of the Jordan are so picturesque, just lovely. This is why I like to search for hotels in this area. The museum district is a little farther away from the “canal belt” but offers a quiet area with galleries, boutique hotels and cool apartments for rent.. both are just wonderful.
One thing to know about hotels in Amsterdam is that they come in three sizes. Commercial or chain hotels in large buildings in the city center, canal houses that have been turned into hotels or hotels that have renovated one or two adjoining canal houses for more space. The latter two are my recommended choices. Sure you can get a chain hotel and maybe score some frequent fl yer points, but is that Amsterdam.. no. Amsterdam is the home of the famous canal house… a narrow tall, thin, skinny, not wide building. Depending on the property they will have stairs so steep that it will give you vertigo (check out the photo)
.jpg)
The only time I find the stairs to be an issue is when you arrive with your luggage. Imagine Mount Everest from the base camp. Someone gives you a loaded Samsonite and says take it to the summit! Now if you are savvy like me, you will look for small boutique hotels that have taken two; sometimes three canal houses and gutted them to make one large one. These are great because you get an elevator!! Larger rooms and still have the cool neighborhood outside. These types of hotels tend to be 3 star or higher which equals more expensive. One and two star hotels can be quite wonderful, expect no elevator and most one and two star properties only have a few rooms with bathroom. These hotels take a little more research and first hand inspection to find a good one.. many can be quite run down; but when you find a good one.. ahhhh what a find. A room without a bathroom has always been a “no no” for me except for Amsterdam. It seems the hotels that offer rooms without bath sometimes do it right. “Right” means only one bathroom and shower per two rooms on a floor and a sink in your room so you can brush your teeth or freshen up without going into the hall. If its done right you will only be sharing the facilities with one other room which equals cleaner. The hotels that I have stayed at in A’dam that do this it was almost not noticeable that I did not have my own bathroom; it was just one door away, always clean and I saved quite a bit of change. As you read this you are probably wondering “hey what are the names of these great hotels” well I am a businessman, so if you want to book one of the great places I find then call my office; I got a baby to feed! http://www.travel4real.com/ 1-800-554-5170 or 001-425-355-3711.So I spend much of the afternoon on my bike checking out hotels… I'm starting to get tired of peddling and need a cool drink with a good view. If you are out in the Waterlooplein area head for one of the best outdoor decks around at Café Dantzig. I had a seat in the sun and watched the world go by for an hour or so. A plate of Dutch cheese €3.25 and an iced tea €2.25 were all I needed. The Dutch cheese is brought to you in one inch squares with strong Dutch mustard and they bring you allot. The first bite reveals a hard, crumbly texture without much flavor, then it starts to melt.. ahhhhh the flavor explodes and you mouth is coated in a cheesy warm goodness.. yum. The Dantzig café also has the best iced tea I have ever had in A’dam; so good I had two! I could be there all day, but I’m only in town for a few days so I motivate to get back out.
.jpg)
Lets go see my friend John over at Grey Area. http://www.greyarea.nl/ Oude Leliestraat 2 . I like Grey Area. Its located in the cool Jordan neighborhood and is about the size of a walk in closet. John is from Rhode Island and for some reason the Grey Area attracts “less touristy” Americans and hip Europeans. It also attracts the famous such as Willie Nelson, Woody Harrelson and Lou Reed. I go for the conversation and there are always lots of laughs. If you are into checking out the coffeeshops of Amsterdam this one is a must! When you go; ask John why he pays €20 Euro for all of the pizza’s he orders no matter the size (inside joke)With a smile on my face I head back out into the sunsets of A’dam. The sun in Europe has a yellow glow that makes for great photography so get out there and take advantage of the evenings. Before the shops closed I wanted to get a cool “something” to bring back home.. no, no.. not another rasta man ashtray or snow ball canal scene; I wanted something unique. I tapped into a local Dutch artist named Mark Raven. Mark started out as a street artist and now has worked his way up over 20 years to have his own gallery just behind Dam Square. As an art lover, and someone who likes t-shirts (the classy ones not the cheesy ones) the combination is a good one. Mark takes his scenes of Amsterdam’s canals and everyday life and puts his artist thing on them and sells prints and t-shirts with his work. You cant buy them online or any other place on the planet except at The Mark Raven Shop Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal 174 next to Magna Plaza Shopping Center. Daily 11-6. http://www.markraven.nl/
Its about 5:30 now and I must return my bike by 6, this is the saddest part of the day.. its like giving up your mobility. My bike shop is near Dam Square in the center so I start the purposely slow ride back.. I check in my wheels and start walking back toward my hotel. I hate walking!!! Especially if it is after biking for two days. It feels like someone took my jet pack off and replaced it with a rock; it slows me down. You can’t see 1/10 of what you can see on a bike on foot, and it feels like I'm making no ground.
Need to find some dinner. Since I don’t have any wheels and I don’t want to taxi everywhere (but there’s the tram, says people who have been to A’dam) yes, but its not fun, its just transportation, biking is fun.. I want to bike..
Amsterdam is a melting pot of smells and flavors, you can find almost any cuisine here. For a good American burger head over to the Hard Rock Café, it may be a tourist spot but it actually has the best burger in town. Max Euweplein 57-61 www.hardrock.com/amsterdam
One thing you will see a ton of are Argentinean steak houses, Indian food and fast food. The steak houses an Indian are good bets almost anyone you go to. For fast food check out Wok to Walk. Choose your base, noodles or rice, add your veggies or meat and then the sauce. Its all whipped up right in front of you in all its healthy glory. They are all over town; I go to the one at Leidsestraat 96 open 12-12, no credit cards.
I decided to keep in simple and around my hotel since my ride to the airport was at 7 the next morning. I'm one of those types of travelers that makes a complete mess of their hotel rooms and then packs it all up just before bed the night before my flight. I decided on Café-Restaurant De Oude Wester. Rozengracht 2. This is a neighborhood spot with simple but homey interior. The menu is very Dutch, lots of pancakes and stews. I went for a ½ pint of Amstel beer €1.90, bitterballen which is soft meatballs coated in crunchy crust and fried €3.50 and for the main course Goelach which is like Russian stew (meat, tomato base, rice) €15.50. Diner was good, needed a little more flavor, but bland is typical here. The atmosphere was great, watching locals bike past, people walking their dogs and boaters with wine and cheese cruising the canal in front of the restaurant.
With a full day behind me I head back to my hotel, pack, write and sleep.
Feet on the ground in Amsterdam
So I hop on my bike and head for Dam Square. Dam Square is the epicenter of Amsterdam. This is the place you start, finish or pass through while sightseeing. I really like the area of town called Leliegracht. This area is in the canal belt and is filled with quaint shops, cafes, bookshops, galleries and rolling streets with picturesque bridges. I think its a great place to base from to see the city because its a quiet area a night but only steps from the main areas. I spend the rest of the day just getting re acquainted with the city; the weather is mild, a little overcast and about 55 degrees. The first night in any city I travel to is the Jet Lag night... this means using all of my energy to stay awake until at least 10 pm. My body clock is 9 hours off back in PST so every atom in my bod wants to sleep.
Travel TIP: Don't plan any organized or paid sightseeing such as a tour on your arrival day; chances are you will be so fuzzy from the long flight and 9 hour time change that you wont remember a thing. My advise is get there, unpack, shower and head out getting to know the neighorhood around your hotel. Find the basics for a comfortable stay.. IE closest shop for soda, water and snacks. Closest ATM, cafe for a good cup of joe and place to grab dinner. This way you have a basic understanding of your surroundings and it helps keep you awake after you land.
Amsterdam has a ton of Gyro shops that make for a great, yummy fast meal. Shaved lamb, three different types of sauces, simple salad and flat bread made a perfect jet lag day dinner. Hit the sack, hoping for 12 hours of sleeping bliss to make up for the lost day of travel; it should get me back on local time quickly.
Travel Day! SEA - FRA - AMS
I love the new Seattle terminal upgrades; they really went all out. Great food, lots of space, plenty of bathrooms and places to plug in, plus free high speed internet; a great "stuck at the airport" perk. Let’s see, passport - check, e-ticket printout- check, something to read-check. This year I am flying Lufthansa out of S gate 11 at 2:25pm. I kiss my lovely wife and beautiful daughter good bye; and I am off on another adventure across our blue ball called earth.
On my way to the gate I plug in my earphones and click-buzz-click to the rhythm of the music... ARGGG... my headphones decided to die just as I got to the gate... I won’t have my music for the flight... not good... I hope this is not an omen for the rest of the 14 hour trip.
As I begin to board I have a little good luck thing I do each time I get on a plane... pat the plane as I pass through the door... nothing noticeable but just a "ok big boy, get me there safely" kind of pat. I guess it’s kind of ironic that a professional traveler has a slight fear of flying but I do. I think it is the famous "lack of control" issue; I mean if the plane were going down I would feel better in the cockpit pulling the heck out of the wheel knowing it would not do a bit of good, but for those last moments I would feel like I tried. I think that’s better than sitting in 39E waiting for impact; but that’s just me.
So I have not flown Lufthansa in a while and as soon as I get on I remember how much I like that airline. It’s the little touches; the ones you notice as soon as you sit down. Each seat has a video system with movies, music and games; things are tidy... very German.
As I walk down the isle looking for 39E... lets see... not there, nope not that one... ahh yes here we go; a lady in shorts and sandals is adjusting her pillow. Ok this is going to be my seat mate for the next ten hours. I always believed that you should say hello to someone you are going to sit next to for ten hours; it seems only natural; but the woman did not even glance in my direction the entire flight.. I thought that was a little weird; but to each his or her own.
One great thing I like about Lufthansa is the little extras you get... even in coach; a welcome cocktail arrives; yes drinks are free, beer, wine and top shelf liquor; not that back of the barn brew you see on American carriers for 5 bucks. Then here comes the first round of hot towels... ahhh that’s nice... a real treat that you don’t see anymore unless your seat cost as much as a Ford Focus.
We head for 35000 feet and I begin to Perouse the movie and music selection... "Would you like a headset sir" in English and German. "Yes" thank you; do you take US dollars or Euro for the headset? "Its complementary sir”... wow... that’s great... and it’s a REAL headset not the little weak tech devices you pay 2 bucks for on every other airline on the planet... I like Lufthansa.
Over the course of the next 10 hours I see several movies, have a few cocktails, good dinner-bbq chicken, rice and corn... not bad. I can’t sleep on planes, too much ambient noise I guess.
We land in Frankfort (FRA) about 10 minutes late. Great landing... smooth.
FRA TIP: If you land at terminal B and you have a connecting flight in terminal A, get them to take you by one of those little beeping cars; it’s a LONG walk. I think it took me close to 30 min with no stops...
When I go outside of the USA, there are subtle things that occur that tell me im not home anymore... like the airports get smaller and more crowded; I bet the concourse shrunk in size at least three times compared to Seattle’s terminal that feels like you are navigating a football field. But the other thing I notice which I enjoy is the sounds of so many different languages talking at once. You know how if you are in a US airport you hear everyone on their cell phones, talking to their children, ordering some yucky food... and you catch an audio glimpse as you pass by. Well when you get out of the states, to say Europe, you hear the languages of the world all at once... its kind of cool... ohh is that Russian? --- That’s definitely German-- wow what's that... sounds like some African dialect. As you head for your next gate you can hear the world talking, kind of neat.
So after what seemed like 1000 miles I got to gate A42; the last gate in the terminal. Already boarding I just continue right up to hand over my boarding pass. Go on Lufthansa! for a 45 minute flight; really just up and down they give you a bag lunch of a candy bar, apple and apple juice before you get on the flight and when you are on it here comes hot towels, fresh OJ and snacks. I'm officially impressed.
A smooth touchdown in Amsterdam. Amsterdam is one of those places you feel at home in. I really enjoy arriving here; I wish my family were with me; it’s bittersweet.
Baggage claim... wait... wait... ahhh there it is... my bag made it... great; not off to get a taxi. The taxi line outside Schiphol is a line of shiny new Mercedes. I get in line and up drives a new E-Class, nice for a taxi. My driver is from the east with his son in the front seat. No words are exchanged. I'm in my jetlag daze and the son is asleep; so I just zone out for the 20 min drive to the city center.
Travel TIP: take a taxi or a private transfer after a long flight. The extra cost wont even matter compared to dealing with public transportation with jetlag and luggage. One thing most people don’t realize when they plan their trip... when you arrive, after a long flight; your luggage feels like it weights a ton, you are tired, very tired, your stomach is a little weird and all you want to do is get to your hotel and relax. So what the heck are you thinking... get the private transfer or the Mercedes taxi... not the find the train to the city-get your ticket-wait-wait-board-sit-wait-stop-sit-wait-arrive-find taxi line-wait-get-taxi-arrive hotel... get my drift!
So I get to my hotel... a little 8 room place run by a mom and daughter combo that does a great job (no you cant have the name, its my special spot, so there) My room is not ready yet, so I go and do what every traveler to Amsterdam shoud do first... rent a bycycle. Amsterdam is a city on two wheels and that is the ONLY way to do it here. Now im back in my room, typing this. The belltower just rang three-o-clock and im needing some food... im outa here.
tomorrow.. wow its already here
1000 things done .. 1000 to go.. I'm sitting in my home office typing this blog but I really need to be going to buy some socks.. i need socks.. also need to pick up my dry cleaning but i am here typing my thoughts that run through my head at 101 mph. I have all my clients paperwork ready, tomorrow i have some time before my 2:50 Lufthansa flight to Germany. I'm happy but rushed.
Getting Ready to go
As a professional tour guide i have packing down to a science!.. pants, shirts, camera, first aid kit, laptop, wires, cables, thingies, shoes.. all check! I tend not to pack much toiletries because i think its super fun to go into a store in the country you will be going and enjoy some different tasting toothpaste and such.. seems more adventurous to me... whatever. I hve two days to get ready, flight schedules of the clients, greeting sign.. re confirm with my guides.. so much to do.. so little time.. Im going to miss my family more this time.. my daughter just turned two.. i will miss her so much.
Packing TIP: make a photocopy of your passport and put it in your luggage on top. When TSA agents search your luggage they tend not to rifle through everything because you are showing them ID for the stuff in the bag.. makes their lives a little easier and your bag a little better looking when you arrive.
Packing TIP: make a photocopy of your passport and put it in your luggage on top. When TSA agents search your luggage they tend not to rifle through everything because you are showing them ID for the stuff in the bag.. makes their lives a little easier and your bag a little better looking when you arrive.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)